In Jerusalem September Ends with the Sounds of Selihot

What a week this was in Jerusalem, Israel!

The Jerusalem streets are usually full of tourists this time of year as Rosh Hashana, the New Year, and the High Holiday season begins at the end of Elul into the Hebrew month of Tishrei.

People are arriving. But, only ElAl is flying and they are booked solid.

Cannot tell what will happen next.

But check out what happened on Jerusalem streets this week.

The view from the Tayelet shows Old Jerusalem, Mount Zion, and Mount Scopus in the distance.

But the view of the growth of Jerusalem is also evident, as the population of Israel grows to 10,000,000.

Where else do people arrive to visit and live as housing prices go up – during prolonged wars?

Since the outbreak of the war, around 853,000 tourists have entered mainly from (in descending order): the United States, France, the UK, Russia, and the Philippines.

The olive trees are full as the season changes and Jerusalem nights are cooler.

With war raging around, daily life and building in Jerusalem, there are new roads and tunnels.

Renovation on the old Knesset site for the new Knesset Museum is finally visible.

New outdoor lighting illuminates the Great Synagogue and Heichal Shlomo next door.

‘Uniting for the future’ was the theme of the Keren Kayemet – Jewish National Fund solidarity mission which opened on Sunday night at the Jerusalem International Conference Center.

Its themes are working for the future in education, rebuilding, and honoring heroes and heroines of the Iron Swords War which is ongoing.

I arrived early as did Dani Dayan, the chairman of Yad Vashem, one of many institutions affected by war.

Three hundred people came from around the world on this solidarity mission dedicated to rebuilding.

Involved in the program were victims of terror and loss. The siblings of fallen soldier Cpt. (res.) Shaul Greenglick, who was an aspiring singer, sang in the program.

It was a powerful program that hopefully inspired major givers to give even more.

Ending with a child from a southern community saying ‘Thank You’ for helping us re-light our hope’.

As October 7 approaches, multiple organizations, programs, and videos are appearing to tell the story.

Michael Dickson of Stand With Us spoke at the opening of the Faces of October 7 on Tuesday night.

Portraits by talented artist Benzi Brofman are on display in Jerusalem until the end of October.

Each life-like face is a person kidnapped or killed since October 7, 2023.

The entire Siman-Tov family was brutally murdered on October 7 by Hamas terrorists in their home.

The photos are exhibited with the family’s cooperation. IDF soldier Reef Harush’s parents were there, his father was one of the speakers. For Reef’s mother, it was too painful for her to look at the portrait by Brofman. Look into the bright eyes, in the photo in his IDF uniform in the center, and see her world lost.

With each image is the personal story of the person. What is overwhelming to me – this photo of Loris z”l was drawn in one hour during the afternoon before the opening by the talented Brofman.

Too much loss. Too many new graves this past year,

especially in the military cemeteries throughout Israel.

However – more is happening on the Jerusalem streets that is not sad.

The Jerusalem Design Week “The Ark” ended on Thursday night at Hansen House.

With lectures and talks along with the out-of-sight designs.

After Shabbat the Jerusalem streets were almost as busy as ever.

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As Rosh Hashana approaches in only a few days, there are fairs galore to support Israeli businesses.

It’s been a rough year for not only business but personal loss and longing on many levels.

Rachel Sharansky Danziger spoke at a book launch for “Az Nashir – We Will Sing Again: Women’s Prayers for Our Time of Need,” an anthology of prayers written by Jewish women in Israel addressing the unique experiences of living in Israel today in a post-October 7th world. 

Before Rosh Hashana in Jerusalem, the streets are filled with sounds of Selihot, and late-night prayers. At Yemin Moshe you can see the Old City Walls illuminated in the distance. One of many possible sights for popular Selihot tours each year.

The Solomon Brothers returned to do a musical Selihot with people standing all around.

At the Jerusalem Great Synagogue, Cantor Tzvi Weiss was singing in a very different style.

The men’s section was full this year to hear him accompanied by the choir directed by Elli Jaffe.

Thousands were at the Kotel, Western Wall, filling the plaza, as many past nights.

While thousands more at the Jerusalem International Conference Center to hear Yitzhak Meir again and at hundreds of other Selihot services as every year.

Colored holiday lights have appeared this week over the Jerusalem streets before Rosh Hashana.

I thought it would be nice to end with some of the sounds of the Solomon Brothers’ Selihot,

and share a few minutes of the Great Synagogue choir and chazan.

Shana Tov Jerusalem 5785

May all be inscribed for a good year.

In Jerusalem many ways of giving and giving thanks

As we approach two months into Operation Swords of Iron, Jerusalem is slowly emerging from protected shelters to the streets, as the sirens warning of incoming rockets from Gaza have ceased.

Jerusalem of the City of Lions is roaring back to life.

New posters proclaim the City of Lions offers thanks to those who gave blood and offered assistance.

Schools have reopened with more blue and white and signs for the return of hostages.

Jerusalem also has given shelter to tens of thousands from the south and north who had to leave home.

People in Jerusalem have been giving mountains of clothes to those in need. Some families lost everything when forced to leave burning homes, lucky to escape and save their lives.

Here at one center set up by Chabad of Talbiyah upstairs in the Social Space, gives to those who need for free, more than clothes, most anything they need until they can go home.

From another Chabad house, a truck was waiting for donated food to take to soldiers serving in the Gaza border. The number of initiatives giving food would fill pages, including the Jerusalem Baking Batallion.

Also, the number of pop-up Farmers’ Markets in Jerusalem grows by the week.

Jerusalemites tend to buy more than they need to support the farmers and then have to figure out what to do with it all. We have enough avocado for every meal this week, but it is so good, no complaints.

Standing in lines waiting to pay, giving a little to help the struggling agricultural communities.

Also, too many fresh figs meant guess what cake for dinner?

And then another day and another location and another market near the public shelter.

The Tower of David Museum of Jerusalem is to hold a fair of artists from Jerusalem and from the communities of the conflict line from the north and the south who are hosted in the city.

The fair will be held before Hanukkah, on Friday, December 1st between the hours of 9:30 and 15:00.

Giving thanks, “Thankful & Grateful” was the theme of a special Thanksgiving dinner in Jerusalem.

Thursday night at the StandWithUs Center near the King David Hotel there was a meal hosted for lone soldiers and lone b’nei sherut (volunteers) who came from around the world to volunteer to serve in Israel.

Thanksgiving dinner with turkey and all the trimmings was served by volunteers from The Michael Levin Base.

The Solomon Brothers were back again playing American oldies to the greatly reduced number of Thanksgiving dinner participants, as so many lone soldiers were on active duty. But a Thanksgiving dinner-in-a-box was prepared for those on the front lines.

Jerusalem Deputy Mayor Fleur Hassan Nahoum and Stand With Us director Michael Dickson were smiling at the successful event. With them, was a dentist who came from the US, volunteering and giving dental care to those who need it. One did not have to be from the US to attend of enjoy the food and company.

A highlight of the program was a surprise guest from the US. James David Maslow has millions of followers on social media. However, when the musician/actor posted a pro-Israel comment after October 7 he received an astonishing number of antisemitic replies. With a few days free on his schedule, he took the time to come to Israel to give support.

The young people surrounded Maslow after he spoke. He took time to speak to them and take dozens of selfies. His Instagram posts were of the usual Israeli food and salads. But he also went to the south to report the situation from the standpoint of one who could have been on the stage at Nova where the massacre outside Kibbutz Reim occurred on the morning of October 7.

For dessert, there were donuts instead of pumpkin pie. Herby’s Bakery donated dinner rolls in the past, and this year gave boxes of donuts. Here a father who had arrived in the morning by plane from the US on Operation Hug agreed to pose with his lone soldier sons and a donut.

Hanukah is less than two weeks away with its sweet donuts, and it’s time to give thanks for what we do have, appreciate the miracles, and also, remember the fallen, captive, and injured.

There is a campaign in memory of fallen soldier Roey Weiser to post a photo on social media eating a donut with #donutsforroey. People and organizations have been posting photos on Facebook.

Sorry, I ate one too fast, so I shared the photo of the box before taking one of the plain glazed donuts.

Another sweet memory for educator and fallen soldier Yosef Chaim Hershkowitz, whose mother gave out chocolates after completing the shiva for her son.

Hershkowitz wrote to his students from the front, “There is no left, there is no right, there is no Haredi. There is a Jew!!!

Together we will prevail!”

Good must prevail over evil.

Am Yisrael Chai!

Hope to see you too soon on the Jerusalem streets!

Jerusalem: Days, Nights, and more Knights

After the last two years, Jerusalem appears to be getting back to life as we knew it. Crowds are filling the Old City in spite of the summer sun and heat.

The large number of visitors during vacation time means that getting a bus back to the city from outside the Kotel Plaza can be a challenge. People waiting (as seen here on the bottom right) have been known to pack on the city buses leaving the timid tourist behind.

Yes, this entrance to the Kotel plaza really was closed, temporarily to enter from the Jewish Quarter. I tried to warn people not to head down the stairs.

This was the main entrance to the Kotel, Western Wall the afternoon I went last week along with hundreds of others.

In spite of the number of visitors, the egalitarian section which is shaded from the blazing sun was nearly empty, as usual.

The main reason I went during the day was to check out the free shuttle from First Station to the Kotel. This stop near Dung Gate is where it was located before the vans stopped running during the pandemic.

The bus stop in the First Station parking lot was not marked but is in the same location.

The new vans do not look like the ones in the past, but run on the same schedule, every 20 minutes on the hour. Arrive one minute late and you will have to wait for the next one, as I did. They run on time.

They also stop at the Ir David nature activity, on the way to the Old City.

The Tower of David has an event with Knights. Only in Jerusalem can a period of persecution become a family fun activity, I was reminded of the Jerusalem Knights Festival – 12 years ago. Where has the time gone?

At night, there are the new little cars to drive for site seeing.

But also a special bus runs at night to see Jerusalem’s iconic buildings lit.

The water at Teddy Park across from Old City walls is still popular.

I was on my way to the Artists Colony, for a lecture by Irvin Ungar at the Kol HaOt gallery on the artist Arthur Szyk.

The slides presented of Szyk’s vast artwork were fascinating.

UN Security Council, 1948

(To the greatest mockery of them all, the Security Council of June 1948)

“We agree with you on every point, except your stubborn insistence on surviving…”

Note China, Syria, and Belgium sitting at the table facing an Israeli in chains in Szyk’s political cartoon from 1948.

Also later that night was the opening of the International Puppet Festival.

Smoke and skaters entertained the public as the audience was allowed to enter the Skating Park at Jerusalem’s Liberty Bell Park for free.

Mime actors and lights enthralled the young families up close.

There was action all around the skateboard peaks and valleys,

and spaces for the audience to sit and watch.

The new Train Theater hosted varied theatrical and puppet performances inside and out all week.

And by day, the Teddy Park water fountain was filled again with families at the end of the summer holiday time.

Perhaps the oldest and most Israeli festival Hutzot Hayozer is back again next to the Artists Colony and Teddy Park.

Israeli products, arts, and crafts were again featured in various booths. I went early to surprise one businesswoman setting up her space.

The big stands in the middle area held international booths in the past.

But this time, the booths from various countries were replaced with international food offerings.

I suppose Israelis who did not travel overseas this summer, consider this their end-of-summer splurge. First, you pay to get in. Then you pay again for your food. There is a different musical performance every night.

You can go for the golden seats set up in Sultan Pool, as thousands come each night for the shows. They come year after year, except during the corona time.

Besides the dozens of young security staff on guard, a fire engine waits inside ready for an emergency.

But not far away is something new, very new.

The new StandwithUs sign is on King David Street by the King David Hotel.

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Stand With Us has opened its new educational center with a program designed for groups to explain – What is Zionism.

Breaking down the Jewish story into sound bites to keep it simple.

The Israel story in its simplest form, indigenous roots, exile, and liberation, SWU is trying to reach the new instant information generation.

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The Jerusalem, Israel story is not short and goes back thousands of years.

The infamous “green line” is barely green, but I passed over it this week

to get to the New Gate of the Old City for a new Jerusalem street festival.

Inside New Gate, music and more entices tourists back to the Old City.

I was sad to see too many shops shuttered in the Christian Quarter as I walked thru to Jaffa Gate.

Oh there, was much more, but this is getting too long.

Docotext festival was back at National Library and the Outline Festival is to extend on to Jaffa Road from August 17-23.

Shalom Kitah Aleph signs went up to welcome first-grade students to the start of school. When that will be will depend on the outcome of the negotiations to see if there is another teachers’ strike.

Plenty of signs are back on the Jerusalem streets–see if you can explain this sign.

Ah, the Israel Festival returns to Jerusalem streets on September 15-22, 2022.

So there you have a bit of what was happening this week, days and nights, on and off the Jerusalem streets.

Hope to see you here soon!