The Best of Jerusalem, as Israel turns 74

It was 21 years ago that I was in Israel for Yom HaZikaron and Yom Haatzmaut for the first time. We arrived after a March of the Living trip to Poland and a visit to Auschwitz on Hitler’s birthday. 

Terrorists were blowing up buses on the Jerusalem, Israel, streets in 2001. Our group was sent to Arad and Beer Sheva instead of Jerusalem, which was thought to be too dangerous during those Intifada days.

The irony – after traveling by bus through Poland, and then being afraid of walking the Jerusalem streets, its buses, and eateries!

On Yom HaZikaron, Israeli Memorial Day, we remembered 24,068 Israeli soldiers who fell in battle and the 4,216 civilians who were murdered by terrorists.

To begin the busy week, The Michael Levin Base had a Sefer Torah dedication Monday night with former Ambassador Ron Dermer the featured speaker. These Torah covers were made specially from the tallis bag Harriet Levin had made for her son fallen soldier, Michael Levin z”l.

“You can’t fulfill your dreams unless you dare to risk it all” he had stated.

Photo credit: Kobi Gideon GPO

The official opening state ceremony is held annually at the Kotel, Western Wall Plaza, with the President of Israel speaking the lighting of a memorial torch with an honor guard, it is similar each year.

However, there are also thousands of smaller community ceremonies held throughout the country and by various groups. For the past two years, Covid severely limited all the major large community commemorations. The ceremony in Arad was well done and still, a vivid memory of a community united in mourning their fallen soldiers.

This year we attended an English event at Givat Tachmoshet, Ammunition Hill, led by The Michael Levin Base and supported by Norman Blaustein, in memory of his wife Sarah z’l who was murdered over 20 years ago. A terrorist sprayed their car with bullets, on an Israeli highway on the way to Jerusalem. One-shot to the back of her head was fatal. She had made aliyah nine months before.

A total of 28,284 men, women, and children have been killed in terrorist attacks and in defense of the Land of Israel since 1860, the year that the first Jewish settlers left the secure walls of Jerusalem to build new Jewish neighborhoods.

Since the last Memorial Day, 56 new names have been added to the roster of those who died defending the country.

A memorial siren sounds at night and again in the morning. There are official events at Har Herzl most of the day with families of soldiers and in communities throughout Israel as well.

This year the Netanyahus attended the program at the school where Sara works. In many Jerusalem neighborhoods, a ceremony was held at the local memorial site with the names of fallen residents.

Memorial Day ended on Wednesday evening, ushering in Israel’s 74th Independence Day with a multitude of live events with music and dancing.

Musical prayer services public and private could be heard walking along the Jerusalem streets after sunset ending the day of mourning.

Examples of the Blue and White themed plastic boppers, balloons, and glowing headbands were available for sale at First Station.

The musical prayer service attracted a huge crowd, while next to it at First Station the annual main event from Har Herzl’s live broadcast was seen.

People coming and going, and the crowd was so large it was hard to find friends. There were too many Jerusalem large events to attend, they included fireworks, and live musical entertainment, with some lasting all night long.

Annually at Beit Hanasi, the President’s Official Residence, the military honors start the daytime events, while in many synagogues the Hallel prayer is added to the morning service.

For thousands of Israelis, a highlight of Yom Haatzmaut is watching the Tanach Chidon or International Youth Bible Quiz on television.

This was the first time I was able to attend the annual and popular event held at the Jerusalem Theater, and fortunate to be there for the exciting finish. It ended with a tie between two young Israelis. The US representative came in third – first for the Diaspora communities.

The President, Prime Minister, and Jerusalem Mayor were honored to ask a question, but, the event is under Education Minister Dr. Yifat Shasha-Biton who was escorted to the stage to speak.

The full recorded broadcast is available online if you want to check your knowledge with that of these impressive youngsters.

I want to add this audience was the most enthusiastic, yet respectful group I have seen, they and we should all be proud.

In the afternoon the annual President’s Diplomatic Reception was back again after the corona limitations of the past two years,

with the traditional photos of representatives of international armed forces,

and religious leaders based in Israel in attendance.

At the colorful event, I love the military hats on the table as in the past.

New this year was the new Israeli President and Michal Herzog hosting, and featuring a variety of Israeli boutique wineries,

and cheese adorned with miniature Blue and White flags.

Ladies dressed in traditional costumes and men in uniform also enjoyed the Israeli ice cream cones or cups offered at the afternoon reception.

I noticed, as always, the diversity of the attendees,

and the large flags near the outdoor stage,

and wished I could have indulged in more wine with the diplomats who were hosted at Beit Hanasi.

But I wanted to get to the Jerusalem International Conference Center for the Israel Prize ceremony. This was the only decent image I could get. This was one event I should have stayed home and watched live on TV. It was much different than in past years when the live crowd filled the big auditorium.

Walking there thru Gan Sacher, Sacher Park, where people were enjoying family get-togethers on Yom Haatzmaut, some of the smallest flags were the cutest and I did see long time friends, so it was worth the time.

Much more happened this past week, but I will conclude with a brief quote from Dermer’s exceptional remarks which I hope to share in full soon.

The Torah gives us purpose. Israel gives us power.

Purpose without power is a lethal combination…

But power without purpose also cannot secure the Jewish future.   The mightiest of Empires and the greatest of civilizations have crumbled when their people lost their way when they lost their sense of purpose.”

The intense week of the Yoms, Yom HaShoah, Yom HaZikaron, and Yom Haatzmaut, with its extremes of highs and lows has concluded.

The Power of the IDF and the Purpose of the Torah were exemplified this week, and hopefully, we will continue together to build and celebrate Israel at 75 next year in Jerusalem.

Tips for Touring in Jerusalem

Once again in Jerusalem, the weather has turned overnight, from freezing cold and cloudy to a full-blown sunshine heatwave.

Well, except when the next sand storm blows in to block the rays.

We asked for warmer and it’s here this week.

Lucky are all those thousands of returning tourists! People who have wanted to come but because of corona and closings were not able to get to Jerusalem sooner, they are arriving daily.

View of Kotel from Aish roof

The Old City should be buzzing this year with Passover, Ramadan, Easter Sunday, and Orthodox Palm Sunday coinciding.

But there is much more to do in Jerusalem!

Entrance to Jerusalem Biblical Zoo

The Jerusalem Biblical Zoo is a short drive, with the Aquarium nearby,

Jerusalem butterfly house

and it’s fun to check out the new butterfly house when the sun is shining.

Even at the Knesset, where you can book and join a free tour, there’s a large crane rising above the Knesset. Building construction is everywhere. Traffic is back and filling the Jerusalem Streets.

The Rose Garden and Gan Sacher, Sacher Park, are close to the Knesset.

Now that the 11th Jerusalem Marathon is over the park is much quieter than last week with tens of thousands of runners trying to stay dry.

Jerusalem Sacher Park Lion in new play area

The new playground is large with something for almost everyone. I am fond of that special Jerusalem lion.

However, I want to share some of the lesser-known spots for those who want some quiet time.

Jerusalem Gazelle Valley opening day
Entrance to Hansen House in Jerusalem

Hansen House Gardens are open to the public, plus the annual Design Week is happening soon.

How about a quiet nature spot to eat a picnic lunch off of Emek Refaim?

The Jerusalem Nature Museum is a local secret hideaway, saved from developers, slowly being renovated, and used for varied big events before Covid and starting up again taking advantage of outside spaces.

I love how this time of year flowers pop thru the old stones.

At Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s Residence, I saw this week that signs have been posted to explain the old stones displayed in the gardens on the new audio tour. Tour groups are back at Beit Hanasi!

This week the water was turned on at Jerusalem’s new-old tourist spot.

New signs for France Square were posted.

Jerusalem Paris Fountain and French Square construction

After months and months of construction,

the France Square dedication was held.

Mayor Moshe Lion was surrounded by Israeli flags, but no French ones.

The previous dedication was done by then Jerusalem Mayor Uri Lupolianski with the Mayor of Paris Bertrand Delanoe surrounded by media.

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The old Paris Square stone was not incorporated into the new plaza.

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Paris Square became known for the late-night anti-government rallies.

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For those who do not remember, the old design had a street,

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steps to the fountain area,

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and what Paris Fountain looked like before this renovation.

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The trees are not in full bloom, but the new France Square looks like the proposed design the city published.

For those breathing a sigh of relief that construction noise and protests are finally over at this junction of Jerusalem streets.

Wait.

The building at #62 King George Street is scheduled to come down and a new taller building is to replace it.

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The Jerusalem building that was considered new in 1965, at the edge of the city is now old and to be replaced.

Meanwhile, the fountain on or off seems to be a magnet for children.

A short video from the official dedication of France Square.

Or check out, one of my favorite Jerusalem views on a Jerusalem Photo Walk.

Looking forward to welcoming everyone back to the Jerusalem streets!

Best of Purim in Jerusalem

This year, Jerusalem celebrated Purim officially Thursday night and Friday. While the rest of the world moved on, Jerusalem neighborhoods came alive on Thursday night with Shushan Purim celebrations.

In a new touch, birds flocked to Jaffa Road across from the Tzahal Square. The colorful avian visitors landed the week before Purim.

Remember what was there last year? No? Don’t feel bad, I had to check.

The Purim 2021 RJS post written during Covid lockdowns is linked at the end of this blog. Oh, those corona blur events.

Those birds reminded me of the expression ‘shouting from the rooftops’ which is apparently a very old one.

Corner stone from Beit Hamikdash in Israel Museum

I wonder if it came from the proclamation of the onset of Shabbat in Jerusalem from the Temple precincts. Remember the cornerstone found in the Israel Museum?

The monster was back over Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s residence.

However, today Purim is over and it was taken down.

Kikar Safra, Safra Square, was lined with Purim posters early in the week.

Celebrations were held by the Municipality from 11-2:200 pm with planned entertainment. On Friday Purim celebrations are complicated because of Shabbat. When to read the megillah, when to eat the meal, and more?

I decided to make hamantashen this year, peanut butter and chocolate, blueberry jam, and homemade strawberry jam. They came out great and quickly disappeared.

I liked how the synagogue was decorated for Purim and the megillah reading when we entered at night.

And how the people came ready to celebrate in style.

Readings of Megillat Esther were too numerous to count, at night, and every hour during the day in multiple locations in many Jerusalem neighborhoods, both inside and outside.

The costumes that appeared on the Jerusalem streets were as varied as could be imagined.

At this popular Jerusalem spot, a large group crowded in for a megillah reading.

I wondered how many knew that women were reading the megillah before they came?

But the crowd stayed, and quietly paid attention, making noise only to blot out the name of evil Haman.

In the morning as I was watching for cute costumes, the first colorful couple I saw turned out to be people I know!

Our annual morning family reading has grown over the years.

In Jerusalem, I have a thing I call – Purim or not Purim? – all year long it is hard to tell what some folks are wearing. For example, one young woman had her long hair dark brunette on one side and blond on the other – and it wasn’t Purim, just a regular day on a regular street.

United Hatzalah has been working overtime with the war in Ukraine and refugees fleeing to the borders and needing assistance. This family has United Hatzalah vans parked outside regularly- not just Purim.

But their Purim mishloah manot wins my prize as most clever this year.

Pizza came in handy to serve for dinner on these Purim preparation upside-down days.

And one guy decided he was Pizza Man?

Across the street, this guy thought he could avoid getting captured?

Two couples I know in one day, double jackpot Purim fun.

Hansen House was supposed to be filled with costumed Purim celebrants, but on Friday the weather was too wet and dreary to be outside. But downtown people did come to see the colorful and varied entertainers.

As I was racing along to beat the rain and get to my Purim meal, this guy was impressive enough to get us to stop. Not only was he colorful enough for a second glance, so was his companion.

The Purim feast was a great one. The sushi was almost gone, but with enough cold cuts left over, we had some for Shabbat lunch. A good idea when there is not enough time on Friday for the usual Shabbat preparations.

Next week we have to change the clock on Friday and it’s time for the Jerusalem Marathon. Flags are up over the Jerusalem streets.

Are we really back to normal?

That’s it for now, and until next year – Happy Purim!

פורים שמח

So who remembers last year?

Here’s to hoping we really are post corona and we will see you all soon on the Jerusalem streets!