On a spring day in 2019, I traveled ancient footsteps through the Jordan Valley.
Standing at Qasr al-Yahud, “Castle of the Jews” on the western bank of the Jordan River, I stood at the traditional site where, on the tenth of Nisan, Joshua led the Israelites across the waters into the Promised Land after 40 years in the desert.
“On the tenth day of the first month [Nisan], the people went up from the Jordan and camped at Gilgal on the east border of Jericho.”
The Jordan River is at a narrow point at the site where the twelve tribes crossed.
The main building nearby is the Greek Orthodox Monastery of St. John the Baptist.
The blue-and-white Israeli flag flew over the building on the left, and the white flag with a red cross on the right, the flag of England (St. George’s Cross).
The site features ruins, churches/monasteries from various denominations, baptismal areas, and access to the Jordan River.
It was closed for decades due to land mines and security concerns.
But Israel has cleared the mines. It has been renovated and reopened to visitors.
Identified by Jewish tradition as the site where the Israelites crossed the Jordan River, Jordan shares the site with a simple divider.
Signs are in Hebrew, Arabic, and English for the site also a popular Baptism site.
The day we went, the Jordanian security on the other side was more interested in their phones.
Speakers at the י’ בניסן celebration included Rabbi Yisrael Meir Lau.
But the day also included an IDF-escorted trip to Yericho, Jericho.
In Jericho is the Shalom al Israel Synagogue, also called the Ancient Synagogue of Jericho or Byzantine-era Jericho Synagogue. In the 1930s, it was discovered when digging to build a house.
In the white structure, there is a large, well-preserved mosaic floor with geometric patterns, circles, and floral/heart-like motifs in red, black, and beige tones. A beautiful Byzantine-period mosaic. It is late 6th or early 7th century CE, roughly 1,400 years old.
A raised platform or viewing area with a railing, where our tour group walked around, allowed visitors to look down on the mosaics without walking on them.
The central part of the mosaic includes an Aramaic inscription – “Shalom al Israel“, “Peace upon Israel”, along with a large menorah and other Jewish motifs.
This is the cable car to the Mount of Temptation, one of Jericho’s main tourist attractions.
It’s the lowest cable car in the world, and close to the Dead Sea.
My South East Asian journalist friend mentioned she often came on Saturdays as Jericho was so close to Jerusalem.
The tour of ancient Jericho is a long story and for a post of its own.
It is closed to Jews and Israelis most of the year.
On a convoy of buses, with an IDF escort, and Jericho said to be “friendly,” our bus was stoned. Interestingly, the two younger-looking men were left behind as their leader ran quickly away.
Perhaps because 10 Nisan falls 4 days before Passover, when many families are busy with preparations, it has been overlooked.
Perhaps next year we will get back to the Yud Nisan and the Jordan River to celebrate.
Tradition also links it to the prophet Elijah, who ascended to heaven in a fiery chariot by the Jordan.
Each year, what a year this has been!
We open the door and stand to welcome Elijah into our homes near the end of the Passover seder.
The seder that ends with “Next year in Jerusalem.”
Back to the Jerusalem streets, Chag Sameach, a happy and safe holiday to all.
Hoping to see you soon in Jerusalem!
