Jerusalem Sounds of Music

Who would think the quiet sounds of Jerusalem parks would be a good thing? But children are back in school after a long year at home. Public parks are hosting group activities again, not just providing for family health and sanity with a break out of the house during the day.

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At Takhana Rishona, First Station, on a recent Friday morning, deliveries arrived early for open area dining, and inside seating dining as well.

An outdoor yoga class in the center tent area was happening,

as the aroma of fresh brew from the new coffee bar filled the air.

I was off to meet with Daniel and Yedidia Schwartz near JETH – the Jerusalem Entrepreneur Tourism Hub. A perfect location for their new tour innovation to begin.

Great seeing other groups also as we set off on foot from the Takhana.

The first stop was the Khan Theater, where Daniel, a professional tour guide, told us that the site was built in 1853 as a silk factory. However, it became a night hostel (a khan in Arabic) for Christian pilgrims on their way to Bethlehem, and Jewish travelers on the way to Rachel’s Tomb and the Cave of the Patriarchs. Since 1968, it has been a popular theater venue.

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Minutes away under the St. Andrew Scottish Guesthouse, near the Menachem Begin Heritage Center, is an archeological site of importance.

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A burial area from First Temple times, featuring posters with excellent explanations concerning the finds, including silver amulets with old Hebrew Birkat Kohanim, the Priestly Blessing engraved on them.

Daniel’s tour of Ketef Hinnom and the First Temple period burial site added a new dimension with additional and interesting information.

However, what distinguished this tour from others was the music. Daniel and his brother Yedidia, a professional violinist with the Jerusalem Symphony, entertained us, providing relaxing interludes along the way.

At one of my favorite off-the-street locations, there was time to sit and appreciate nature,

and historical sites, including the Tower of David, along the way to Yemin Moshe and Montefiore Windmill.

Yemin Moshe is a perennial favorite, who can’t but enjoy its beautiful lanes.

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Near the Montefiore Windmill, deserted for so long, people were enjoying the spring-like weather and being out and about again.

In the park area behind King David Hotel, the history of the hotel was retold as nearby groups were getting in their partying before Ramadan.

Celebrating graduation 2021 – and oh what a year it was.

The Lion Fountain had children splashing in the cool water again.

Tourists were learning about the Templar Meeting House next to the Orient Hotel. Tours are for Israelis, with most in Hebrew, as international visitors are limited until May 23rd.

After the Templar houses of Emek Refaim Street, we left for what was advertised as the “Secret Garden.”

In 1880, Martin Pauser built this building as a baker, and he also sold ice cream. During the War of Independence, women and children from Kibbutz Ramat Rachel took refuge here, on what is now called Patterson Street.

In the garden, the tour ended with more music – and wine. I refused to drink so early in the day. But seated in the lovely garden, I felt like I was on a holiday vacation far away – but yet so close to home.

At each stop on the tour, people who walked by would take out their phones and cameras to record the lovely sounds. This tour group was recording us at the last stop, so I finally decided time to take their photo in return.

But really, who could blame them?

The sounds of music and beauty were a treat to celebrate the opening up of Jerusalem streets after a year of repeated closures.

Jerusalem Photo Walks are starting again, in real life and online.

As a guest of Tour de Sound, another way to enjoy the Jerusalem streets

photo credit: Spokesperson Mayor’s Office

Also new – the municipality announces bike rental stations!.

Hope to see you all in Jerusalem one day soon.

Jerusalem Celebrating Back to Normal

Oh, what a difference this year in Jerusalem from last year at this time!

Just a few days after Passover and Yom HaShoah, Holocaust Remembrance Day, and it is a time of Yom Hazikaron, Remembrance for Fallen Soldiers and Victims of Terror, and Yom Haatzmaut, Israel Independence Day.

This year the annual celebrations were back, though with some limitations.

Israel 73 was a time for celebration after a year of lockdowns and isolation.

Extra flags were both flying above and draped along the Knesset Building.

More flags were placed on Israeli government buildings.

Private apartment buildings also were decorated blue and white.

Flags and flowers were seen in Katamon,

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and more flags and flowers lined the streets in Nachalot.

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This year seemed to have more blue and white than I remembered in past.

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And of course, the shops by Machane Yehuda Market were ready.

The Yizkor remembrance symbol, the flower found in Israel, called the Dam HaMacabbim,  appears on memorial stickers and pins. The name is derived form the legend that every spot where the flower grows, a drop of blood was spilled. Last year, my pin stayed in a drawer, this year I was able to wear it outside.

Har Herzl was closed last year to mourning families on Yom HaZikaron. This year it was open but limited, so I went on Tuesday to see them setting up for the official memorial ceremony the next morning.

Security was busy working inside, but two of the memorial guides posed outside of the structure which has the names of fallen engraved on its walls.

Har Herzl Military Cemetery was prepared with flags, black ribbons, memorial candles, flowers and a small white plastic stool at each grave.

This colorful wreath was from the Prime Minister’s Office, placed on the grave of Yoni Netanyahu. Closer and less adorned in the photo is the grave is of David Elazar, the ninth Chief of Staff of the IDF, who served from 1972 to 1974.

In the distance is the grey-haired twin brother of Moshe Sabbah, born in Morocco, who fell at age 19. Each stone resting place marks a son, a brother, so many, too many, 18 to 20-year-olds.

Former lone solider Michael Levin’s grave is piled high from visitors’ remembrances.

Another lone soldier, Alex Sasaki, was buried two years ago and is marked by yellow flags placed by visitors. Zechariah Baumel’s brother came to say Tehillim on Tuesday, where the missing-in-action soldier’s remains were finally returned to Israel and providing closure for the family’s ordeal.

So many graves, each with a story, one could wander and wonder for days.

But walking home from Har Herzl through Nayot Park where hundreds of young people were gathering before Yom HaZikaron was a perfect antidote to the mood of the military cemetery.

Again the next morning, groups of young children stood quietly at attention for two minutes at the sound of the memorial siren.

With limited access to Har Herzl on Yom HaZikaron, commemorations were held at smaller cemeteries throughout Israel.

The Givat Ram Cemetery, with the Supreme Court in view, had more flowers and candles and people coming than when I went a few years ago.

This cemetery became active when in 1948, the Jews could no longer get to the Mount of Olives to bury their loved ones as they had for centuries. Some of the old stones are nameless.

Exiting the cemetery to Gan Sacher, Sacher Park, the new Candle Memorial in memory of those who died in the siege of Leningrad is located along the path.

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Gan Sacher was prepared for the Yom Haatzmaut mangals, BBQs, with new large metal bins around for the remains of the grilling charcoals.

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The official state ceremony for Yom Haatzmaut, begins with a transition from Yizkor, remembering the fallen to the celebrating Independence.

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This year again a live audience watched the televised program as well as those at home watching the show. One of the honored torch lighters was Tzipi Harpenes, the principal of AMIT Elaine Silver Technological High School. I visited her school in Beer Sheva and met her, and I can tell you, there is much more to add to her amazing story.

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However, there were multiple community ceremonies as well. This one at Ramban shul was not only standing room only, but due to corona restrictions, people stood outside as well.

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This was the synagogue of Zechariah Baumel’s family, notice his name was added to the memorial wall on the bottom left.

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For many, this was the first time back at the synagogue in over a year. So the welcome back sign was very appropriate.

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Inside the ark was draped with flags as the evening service began.

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The Great Synagogue was open again, but with limited numbers, the “green pass” and id’s needed to enter.

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The memorial flame was at the entrance to the Begin Heritage Center.

The Kotel, Western Wall Plaza, was again the scene of the official start of Yom HaZikaron, with President Rivlin speaking. The corona dividers were gone, but the numbers were still limited on Tuesday night.

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Wednesday night at the Kotel, the memorial names were still seen.

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But the flag raised and memorial torch extinguished as the Independence Day prayers and celebrations began.

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Thousands attended the service, which ending with singing and dancing.

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Solitude was only to be found at the Egalitarian section of the Western Wall.

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From the Hurva Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City,

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from the Takana Rishona, First Station,

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and from Teddy Park the sounds of singing and prayer rang out.

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Teddy Park had limited attendance, but that did not stop dancing in the streets as the music in venues was projected outside.

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It was hard to get a photo of the crowd at Teddy Park – it was so large.

Community centers, Sultan’s Pool, Safra Square, Gan Sacher were some other locations with live music and celebrants well into the morning hours.

But the real streets were not only full of beautiful music and celebrations.

It was distressing and hard to believe so few people made such noise in their antigovernmental protesting. I would have ignored them but they started up again on Shabbat which was even worse.

But to end a busy week on high notes, the flyover was back again this year.

And fireworks. There were multiple locations. But my only decent photo was this one over Silwan which was lit up for Ramadan.

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The beginning of the Muslim Ramadan month and Yom Haatzmaut coincided this year. The walls of the Old City were lit up as we all proceeded home after a night of celebrations.

This year in Jerusalem – so different than last year!

The recording of the national ceremony on Har Herzl – HERE

More Yom HaZikaron images on Facebook HERE

Hope next year to see you on the Jerusalem streets for these special days.

Yom HaZikaron and Yom Haatzmaut 2020

Yom HaZikaron and Yom Haatzmaut 2020

Seeing the world 20-20 used to be an expression of sight.

Hindsight was considered 20-20. This year 2020 took on new meaning.

This year Yom Hazikaron, Memorial Day, and Yom Haatzmaut, Independence Day, moved from the Jerusalem streets to the clouds, to Zoom, and went online.

Until this year, in Jerusalem, Israel, tens of thousands headed to Har Herzl Military Cemetery to visit graves of fallen soldiers on Yom HaZikaron, then on Yom Haatzmaut people gathered in Gan Sacher, Sacher Park, and every other Israeli green space for a mangal,  a barbeque, a huge family and friend-filled day.

Israeli Independence Day at Gan Sacher in 2017

Crowds and traditions and the plastic boppers for Yom Haatzmaut parties had grown to huge proportions.

And then there was this year’s schedule:

Lockdown until 8:00 pm on Wednesday night.

Independence Day at Israeli President house in 2017

The Presidential reception for foreign diplomats serving in Israel

Diplomat reception at Beit Hanasi in 2017

was an impressive gathering in the Beit Hanasi back garden.

Yom Haatzmaut at Beit Hanasi 1969 Diplomat Reception

Hundreds of dignitaries filled the area for the event.

This year is Israel’s 72 Independence Day celebration.

Israeli President and Foreign Minister raise a glass in toast with foreign diplomats for Independence Day
photo credit: Mark Neyman (GPO)

Foreign Minister Yisrael Katz joined President Reuven Rivlin at Beit Hanasi before the holiday and raised a glass to the diplomats who watched from a safe distance at home on their screens.

Monday, April 27

8:00 pm – one-minute siren
8:01 pm – ceremony from the Kotel, Western Wall
9:00  pm- Songs and readings in remembering the fallen

Screen shot of Kotel cleared before Yom HaZikaron

For Yom HaZikaron, the Kotel, Western Wall is cleared as usual for the main national opening ceremony.

military guard at flame for Yom Hazikaron at Western Wall

In the past, as seen for many years, the honor guards stood in dress uniform.

Memorial Day at Western Wall 3 in uniform with masks

Again in 2020, the uniforms, but with masks, and the huge crowd was missing.

Western Wall for yom hazikaron

The memorial flame was lit and the Israeli flag lowered.

Western Wall for Memorial Day state ceremony

The ceremony filled the plaza and was televised live.

It can be found on YouTube.

Israeli President Rivlin wearing a mask at Yom Hazikaron ceremony at Western Wall

Seeing President Rivlin stand wearing a mask during Hatikvah after speaking,

Kotel for Yom Haatzmaut ceremony beginning Yom HaZikaron

and honor guard standing with social distancing – was surreal and 2020 strange.

The siren sounded as usual, but even masks could not hide all the emotions.

Crowd and stage in Sultan's Pool for night of music on Yom Hazikaron

The huge musical events in the Sultan’s Pool – not this year.

Tuesday, April 28

11:00 am – two-minute siren
11:02 am – national memorial ceremony from Har Herzl
1:00 pm – a memorial ceremony for victims of terror

5:00 pm – a full lockdown – only leave home for an emergency

7:40 pm – ceremony ending Yom Hazikaron and the beginning of Yom Ha’atzmaut, the annual torch-lighting ceremony

Grave on Israeli Memorial Day with flag and flower

Israeli Memorial Day with flags and flowers was held but no visits to graves this year on the day.

To remember fallen soldiers and victims of terror

Yizkor memorial ribbons and pins and crowds might have been fewer in number,

but the number of online live and video opportunities has never been greater.

And at sunset on Tuesday night, Yom Haatzmaut celebrations started.

Israeli Independence Day signs, celebrating Independence at home 72

New signs lined the Jerusalem streets, “We are celebrating Independence at Home 72.”

The official state ceremony is broadcast annually on Israeli television before a huge crowd.

Israeli Independence Day stage at Har Herzl

This year the colorful sets and 12 honored torch lighters were prerecorded and available on social media outlets.

Still, lots of lights, but the number of performers was greatly reduced.

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The IDF flag parade had fewer participants but marched again with social distancing.

Yom Haatzmaut at Tower of David

Jerusalem’s official municipal event was held at the Tower of David, a very different event. The Mayor welcomed the audience at home. Rachaeli Fraenkel spoke and musicians sang prayers. No production numbers or dancers, simple and no pulsating lights.

Late-night music was provided by performers who rode around to various neighborhoods.

Wednesday, April 29

10:00 am – annual Jerusalem broadcast from Beit Hanasi
11:00 am – annual World Bible Quiz

3:22 pm  – IAF flyovers saluting medical workers

7:30 pm – Israel Prize Ceremony

I did not go to the President’s house today as I had wanted.

Israeli President House on Independence Day

The big Outstanding Soldiers of the Year event is to be at some future time.

Israeli President Rivlin

However, this year the President came to my house for Yom Haaztmaut.

His official presentation “All Israel from Jerusalem” ended with the Israeli Philharmonic playing Hatikvah.

However, I liked this prayer group gathered outside on the streets also ended with Hatikvah.

Yom Haatzmaut Google with Israeli flag

This was the year Yom Haatzmaut went online, from Jerusalem out to the world.

You can just google it from anywhere now.

Tanach Hidon on Yom Haatzmaut from Jerusalem Israel

Or watch the popular International Bible Quiz competition HERE.

Yom Haatzmaut flyover in Jerusalem Israel

The annual airshow did not happen, but an IAF did flyover the Knesset and Israeli hospitals to honor hospital workers.

The 2020 Israel Prize Award ceremony at the end of Yom Haatzmaut was also prerecorded and broadcast online.

After Israel Independence Day IDF band on Facebook

And at night after Yom Haatzmaut 2020, the IDF provided more music on Facebook with”Party like it’s 1948.”

Now you can join in anytime to celebrate Israel’s 72 Independence Day at home.

It’s possible from your homes around the globe this year.

Jerusalem Independence Day dinner for two

We’re celebrating and staying off the Jerusalem streets, this year 2020.

Let’s hope we can all celebrate together, next year in Jerusalem.