Western Wall

Every year the days leading up to Tisha B’Av are an emotional time.

This year more so on the Jerusalem streets after October 7, the past week was one of highs and lows.

Har Herzl Military Cemetery was where I began the week on Sunday evening with a memorial service.

It is 18 years since Michael Levin z”l fell during the Second Lebanon War. But he has not been forgotten.

At the annual service, were prayers and words of remembrance from friends and new young soldiers serving in Gaza. During the war in 2006, on Tu B’Av, we made aliyah. Lebanon is once again a threat with constant rockets raining on the north of Israel. Israel has been at war for the past 10 months.

However, walking home from Har Herzl I passed the construction site of the new light rail station.

Amazingly, Israel has been under constant threat, yet over the years, construction continues, buildings have gone up higher and higher, and so have the purchase prices.

Tisha B’Av began on Monday night with nightfall and the recitation of Aicha (translated as Lamentations).

Of thousands of mournful readings, one new location was held in Jerusalem, Israel, near Balfour Street. With the hostage families, on both sides of the street, people sat on the ground on the stones and plastic chairs, hundreds came to support the families and pray for their safe return, as they recounted past tragedy and destruction in Jerusalem of old.

The walk around the Walls on Tisha B’Av night was held, led by a new organization with new faces.

As the walk was leaving Gan Haatzmaut, Independence Park, I seemed to be the only one who noticed a Muslim family walking by, as security blocked the street to vehicles.

We went past New Gate and arrived at Damascus Gate where the scene was unusually quiet.

Strange no Arab media and no trouble. Could there be a connection? I have done the walk for over 12 years – and nothing exciting or newsworthy has happened.

Zedekiah’s Cave or King Solomon’s Quarries has a new light show that opened. But it was already fully booked through August last week. With travel limited this year, many Israelis have plans to come to Jerusalem for the end of August holiday time.

At Herod’s Gate, you can see the security watching as Israeli flags of those walking pass by.

While in most of Jerusalem, food places were closed on Tisha B’Av night, this kiosk across from Damascus Gate was open. A big difference is how much cleaner this area is than when I first saw it years ago.

Then the view as you walk around and see the lights and Mount of Olives far ahead on the left side.

Finally! I could not see Shar Rachamim, Golden Gate, or Gate of Mercy on the eastern side in the past years, The overgrown trees had blocked the view from the street below.

This gate was sealed by Muslims in 810 and reopened in 1102 by the Crusaders. It was walled up by Saladin after regaining Jerusalem in 1187, then sealed in 1541.

In Jewish tradition, Moshiah will enter Jerusalem through this gate, by way of the Mount of Olives. The Ottomans also built a cemetery in front of the gate. Much more to that story…but I kept going after leaving the group at Lion’s Gate.

The views of the valley below the Mount of Olives are another favorite and another reason I do this walk.

The lights added over the years have improved the image of thousands of years of history.

Then arriving at the Kotel, the Western Wall, the crowd, was almost as large as usual. Thousands came at night to sit on the stones, pray, and some to sing slow sad songs. Women, men and children.

As I left around midnight, these people were waiting for security checks to enter the plaza.

The crowd was almost as large as in past years. Even larger was the crowd as Tisha B’Av ended, threats from Iran, and people arrived by the tens of thousands in Jerusalem for Tisha B’Av.

This year new to the sad stories of past years, “For these things Do I Weep” in the ancient Roman Cardo.

The Golden Menorah of the Temple in the Rova, Jewish Quarter in front of the Hurva Synagogue was lit.

All the stores in Mamilla Mall were closed, but hundreds of people came and went most of the night.

Israeli flags and fasting, the lows of Tisha B’Av were seen on the Jerusalem streets.

However, as the day ended, life again moved on…

the end of August, and school-age children need activities.

Summer Nights at the Tower of David is a new evening program for families, aimed at young children.

The usual fairs, exhibitions, and concerts are happening, like the Puppet Festival at the Train Theater.

Parents try to work and find ways to keep their children busy and safe.

Infinity, which I mentioned last week, opened near the Pais Arena in a large tent in the parking lot.

It is hard to describe the various rooms with light, music, and interactions in a few photos or words.

From the main hall, there are seven areas for people to enter with hands-on wall interactions.

In this 12-minute show, the surroundings change with the season and various-sized balls are to sit or jump on. One man I saw stacked the balls in a corner. More on this another time.

Tonight begins Tu B’Av and is a time for celebrations.

Many weddings are planned, and at each, a glass is broken to remember Jerusalem.

A rollercoaster of emotions week even in the best of times, but this year steeper twists and turns.

After a wild ride this week, ending with Jerusalem of Gold – the sweet music from the Rosmarin Trio.