See Jerusalem a City of Contrasts

The Talmud teaches that there are two Jerusalems–Jerusalem above and Jerusalem on earth below.

This week more than ever the contrast of what’s happening on the Jerusalem streets was extreme.

Life continues even as people wait anxiously for the news of hostages released from Gaza.

The new buildings tower and grow above the streets.

While the light rail track construction has wreaked havoc on the streets below.

There are protests across from the Knesset to release the hostages.

There is also a “Tent of Heroes,” which remembers the soldiers who fell in battle. This morning, a young widow with three children spoke of her husband who was killed in Gaza by an RPG a year ago.

The slide show in the background showed the faces of others who lost their lives this past year. It is hard to watch, so much lost talent and potential.

The poster on the side of the building had an offensive adjective above “WAR” which was edited out rather quickly with white cloth.

I had time to take multiple photos of it as we sat in traffic at night. All day the Jerusalem streets were blocked due to the multiple protests near the entrance to the city.

Finally, renovation work on the Wohl Rose Garden has resumed after a long break.

Even the grounds of the Monastery in the Valley of the Cross are being landscaped after years of neglect.

First Station is to undergo a major renovation. Now most of these stalls wait for tourists to return.

The US Ambassador moved out. The new one should arrive and present his credentials soon.

New community projects are moving along as buildings are renovated.

Look up and Jerusalem, Israel is thriving despite over a year of war.

Today, as I walked along the Israel Museum, the Knesset was getting a power wash, flowers were blooming in the park, and a Muslim man was praying under an Israeli flag.

But, look up and see the yellow ribbon calling for hostages to come home,

and below on the park grounds, the face of one murdered, but not forgotten.

Some of the Armenian gift shops were open again.

But, other shops closer to Zion Gate are still shuttered.

The Armenian parking lot was full,

but the roads near it were empty,

missing the cars

and the crowds for this time of year.

However, the stickers remembering fallen soldiers fill the metal doors of Jaffa Gate.

A few tours listen to the history of the stones and destruction of old.

There are people at the Kotel, Western Wall,

on these sunny warm winter days,

where the Western Wall Heritage Foundation is doing work again.

Digging up the Plaza to work underneath the stones.

Fewer holiday visitors make taking photos easier.

But I would rather see the plaza outside of Jaffa Gate filled with tourists.

I am certain the shops in the Old City would like to see those tourists back.

Even in these days of extreme stress and war, the Roman Cardo pillars stand to remind us of the past.

The dome of the Tiferet Israel Synagogue rises above the Old City to remind us of rebuilding for the future. The last synagogue destroyed by the Jordanian Legions in 1948 is finally nearing completion.

The birds are singing. The sun is shining.

Next Year in Jerusalem – we’ve been saying it for a very long time.

In Jerusalem, the year ends with colors and candles

It’s the end of December, the end of the Hebrew month of Kislev, and the end of 2024.

It’s been a difficult year with war raging against Israel on so many fronts.

I lived in the northeastern United States, and after the amazing autumn colors disappeared with the falling leaves, December was not only cold but dark and dreary.

See what’s on the Jerusalem streets – more than the yellow ribbons and protests.

Winter in Jerusalem, Israel, though some tree branches are bare, it’s easy to find bursts of color.

I love that you can still find white roses blooming in late December.

These orange aloe flowers are another favorite sight along the Jerusalem streets.

The bright colors contrast against the blue sky during the day, an annual winter delight.

The blue and white flags with colored army unit flags are new, a sad reminder of this year’s events.

But for Hanukkah, the lights are out to brighten up the Jerusalem streets at night.

Candles and colors started inside homes on Wednesday, the first night of Hanukkah.

An oil Hanukkah menorah was in a restaurant window in a Jerusalem mall on the first night.

On the second night, we had the annual family Hanukkah get-together.

My holiday-themed Hanukia menorah-shaped cookie and dreidel-shaped cake were not as colorful.

This is the potato latke kugel – at least I got a before photo. The chaotic commotion, with most of the family together, ended up with no posed photo of the table before or the people after.

Coming from the Ashkenazi culture in the US, potato latkes, those greasy fried potato pancakes, were the traditional holiday food for Chanukkah.

In Israel, we have adapted and adopted the sufganiyot, jelly-filled donuts as a holiday treat.

This year decorating the plain versions with piles of cream and colored candies was popular.

On Friday, I went to walk off some of the calories and check out the InPrint Festival at Hansen House.

InPrint Holiday Edition was much smaller than the Hansen House In Print ART Book Fair in January 2023.

However, a few people were still taking advantage of an activity near the closing on Friday afternoon.

The candles I had admired in many locations as decorations inside – had fake flames.

After Shabbat, the sufganiyot traditional donuts covered in white sugar with red jelly in the center,

and donuts with various frostings and fillings were real and served by the box.

Chabad Talbiya was back at Mamilla Mall after Shabbat on the fourth night for the 14th year.

The Solomon Brothers provided live music, while the family of fallen soldier Yosef Malachi Guedalia hy”d said the blessings and lit the large menorah.

A fourth night with flames and music and donuts in Jerusalem.

The crowd was packed in the mall and walking through was a challenge, so I stopped trying.

On the way home at Paris Square, the Chabad Rechavia lighting of the hanukiah and program had ended.

But a few steps away, the protesters were out near the Prime Minister’s official residence and the sign for 449 days with all the yellow flags and ribbons, a reminder of those denied freedom on this holiday–the celebration of freedom.

At Beit Hanasi, Israeli President’s Residence the electric hanukiah was lit for the fourth night.

There were private parties with music and colorful lights.

and signs thanking soldiers for their service along my way.

Schools are closed, but I liked this – “each one is a small light, and together we are a mighty light.”

The walls of the Old City were lit again each night.

However, I prefer one from nine years ago with Hanukkah music.

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New signs are up for more holiday activities. Now to decide what to do with so many choices.

Hope for you to see the colors and lights – next year in Jerusalem.

חנוכה שמח

Hanukkah sameach.

December Holiday Time in Jerusalem

How is this December holiday season different than other years on the Jerusalem streets?

At night, walking near the Old City walls I saw signs of progress and innovation.

However, the new lighting also showed the lack of tourists for this time of year.

New lights installed along the wall near Jaffa Gate illuminate the stones, where a lone man was walking.

This man sat in his usual spot to collect charity from those who walked toward Jaffa Gate.

The stickers of fallen soldiers covered the metal doors.

The Santa Claus off of the plaza inside was back, perhaps larger than usual.

New Gate, the entrance to the Christian Quarter, is usually lit up for the holiday. I was disappointed to see it closed and dark inside, early in the evening, so close to December 25th.

In contrast, on the other side of the Jerusalem street were the lights lit at the French Hospital.

Is there another hospital in the world run by nuns, which serves only kosher food, with a big decorated tree out front?

The YMCA is bright with lights every night in December.

Mamilla Mall had lights overhead and people strolling.

The sufganiyot, Hanukkah donuts, have been displayed all month at bakeries, this one at Mamilla Mall.

These Hanukkiot, Hanukkah menorahs, were bright in the store window.

An annual Bar and Bat mitzvah event for children who lost a parent to terror was at Beit Hanasi again.

At the President’s Residence, the yellow chair for remembering the hostages was front and center.

These young people and their families need no reminders of what a difficult year this has been.

Neither do those on the Jerusalem streets who see bus stops covered with posters as a reminder.

Some of the Jerusalem streets have these colorful Hanukkah lights above during December.

Hanukkah and Christmas are to be celebrated at the same time this year on December 25th.

I wish more tourists were on the Jerusalem streets to appreciate the lights at night.

But it is easier to get a clear shot of the I LOVE Jerusalem sculpture at Tzahal Square near the Old City, without the usual visitors climbing over it and crowds taking photos around it.

Next year in Jerusalem – hope to see you here to appreciate the holiday lights.