Jerusalem, Israel – what is really happening
Jerusalem, Israel will be quiet.
Yom Kippur falls on Shabbat this year,
from Friday evening until after Saturday sundown.
No traffic on the roads.
Businesses will be closed.
The sign on this standing-room-only crowded bus
leaving the Kotel, the Western Wall, said
“G’mar Hatima Tova”
wishing all to be sealed for a good year.
Shabbat Shalom.
Well over the fast, as they say in Australia
Rosh Hashanah is over.
It is back to work and school and routines
after three days of eating and praying for some,
and trips to state parks and nature reserves for others.
Now in Jerusalem, Israel,
it is time to prepare for Yom Kippur.
The late night Selihot are a major tourist attraction.
These special prayer services are now accompanied by music.
Most of the words are the same as boring recitations of old.
To get you in the mood, and save you hours of sleep,
here are a few short videos from recent years.
I was on my way home from the Kotel, the Western Wall,
going through the Old City late at night,
when I heard the beautiful sounds of these selihot.
I had to stop and listen to Chizki Sofer,
and share the beautiful service he led.
Another star is Yitzhak Meir,
who was invited to lead the services at Beit Hanasi,
the Israeli President’s Residence, two years ago.
Israeli President Reuven Rivlin got up to participate.
Last year there was a different musical tradition
with Sephardi Chazan Chaim Israel.
Once again President Rivlin sang, this time
calling for “charity and good deeds.”
The traditional greeting this time of year
גמר חתימה טובה
May all be sealed for a good year
will again be displayed on Jerusalem buses.
Before Yom Kippur,
tens of thousands flock to the Old City,
and to the Kotel, the Western Wall,
for special selihot prayers.
The sounds of piyutim could also be heard coming
from the Israel Museum and the plaza at Kikar Safra.
In recent years a growing number of people,
in religious neighborhoods,
such as Sha’arei Hesed and Nahlaot,
come on organized tours to see and hear.
Some alleyways were dark and quiet,
while many others were filled with tour groups,
some with professional guides and musicians,
religious and secular,
Hebrew and English,
and students of all ages.
Certain locations in Nahlaot
were more popular, like this one with its striking wall art.
Often another group was waiting,
so it was time to move along.
On Rabbi Aryeh Levin Street
by the house of Rabbi Aryeh Levin z”l,
a must-stop-and-see-and-learn spot in Nahlaot.
For decades Rav Levine z”l taught in Jerusalem,
and is remembered for his many acts of kindness,
visiting and caring for Jewish prisoners and the sick.
Our group went past a busy restaurant,
inside a Nahlaot courtyard
and up the stairs to see the synagogue of Rav Levin z”l,
Beit Knesset Ahdut Yisrael,
the Unity of Israel.
Memorial plaques line the walls
for Jews who perished in War of Independence in 1948,
mostly women and children,
and for former Israeli Presidents
Yitzhak Shamir z”l and Menachem Begin z”l.
Rabbi Aryeh’s grandson had some great stories to share.
Many of the tours ended at this bakery in Geula.
It is open 24/6.
As you can see it was busy at midnight.
I am not sure how many could read the signs
calling for modest dress and pure speech.
Another sign is to harder to explain,
but will interest those who know
about the Shuk Kapparot.
On Tuesday morning, erev Yom Kippur,
it will be filled with live chickens and thousands of people.
Meanwhile, as on most nights in Machane Yehuda Market,
thousands of people were partying,
eating and drinking with loud background music.
As I walked home, well after midnight,
I passed more people coming.
Fathers and young sons,
young women looking for sehliot prayers in Sha’arei Hesed.
I do not know if they found what they were seeking,
but I do know that despite all the large posters and promotions,
the only place to find Matisyahu on October 13,
the Thursday night after Yom Kippur,
will be in the shuk.
His performance has was cancelled and rescheduled for May.
Touring the Jerusalem, Israel, streets late at night
it is hard to believe that so much is going on.
The traditional greeting before Yom Kippur is
G’mar Hatima Tova.
There will be no bus service on Yom Kippur,
but in Jerusalem even the buses get in the pre-holiday mood.