Jerusalem Streets Slowly in War Time Returning to Normal

Another week — where to begin and what to share?

No, this is not a Six-Day War.

However, life is beginning, ever so slowly, to return to the Jerusalem streets.

The buildings are rising higher and higher than in the past.

The shops are opening after dark again.

Winter clouds fill the skies and the weather is again a topic of conversation.

The “activity” on the northern border reminded me of this photo from the last trip to the border with Lebanon when we were shooting each other with cameras, not missiles. Hezbollah was already on the border, in violation of UN Resolution 1701.

The residents of northern communities have been evacuated from their homes for months, as well as the residents of southern communities. Up to 300,000 Israelis cannot go home yet.

However, to start the New Year, the barrage of rockets fired from Gaza reached the partygoers in Tel Aviv.

On December 31st, there was a well-attended book launch and program at Ohel Nechama Synagogue in Jerusalem.

The farmer’s markets have become a regular sight, along with soldiers in uniform with a weapon over one shoulder and a child in tow.

Baking has become a weekly event in thousands of households. Thousands of challahs and cookies are being sent every week to soldiers on all fronts, as a way for those not toting a weapon to support the war front from home.

The delicate beauty in nature can still catch your eye if you walk along the Jerusalem streets.

However, a favorite sighting was the new Japanese Pagoda in the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens lit at night as seen from the road. It is planned to open when the cherry trees next to it start to bloom, which is only a few weeks away. Perhaps it will be on schedule.

While plans for events in the future are limited, some are being held. One bat mitzvah girl had a party for close friends to mark the occasion, a larger event for family will be held later. Each girl made two bracelets, one for themselves, and one for a girl who was evacuated from her home.

So Jerusalem streets are filling with honking traffic again, with reminders of those still held hostage in Gaza to “Bring them home now.”

And below this sign, near the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens, I saw a Gett taxi driver who had just gotten off his knees after evening prayers. As he tossed his prayer mat into the taxi, I walked around and up the stairs to go home.

Just another day on the real Jerusalem streets that does not make headlines.

Jerusalem Remembers but Looks to Better Future in 2024

On my social media feed, Israeli friends are posting, “For the rest of the world it’s New Year’s Eve,

but here in Israel – it’s October 85.” Today is the 86th day since Hamas invaded on the Shabbat of Simhat Torah, October 7, destroyed thousands of lives, and hundreds of Israelis were taken hostage in Gaza.

The Jerusalem streets are filled with refugees from the south of Israel and the north, as the war rages on. Life also goes on, though at a different pace.

This past week, there was another full moon over Jerusalem, as the seasons began to change from long dark nights to longer brighter days.

The lively sound of piyut music was coming from downstairs at the Menachem Begin Heritage Center.

While upstairs Benny Begin son of Menachem Begin was giving a short history of Gaza.

Oh, how I dislike the photos that show those posters in the small hall.

But there was something about the way Ariel Sharon kept staring during Begin’s interesting presentation.

I knew of the mosaic from a 6th-century synagogue in Gaza, but his image is better than the one I had.

I did learn about the Margolin family who owned a hotel in Gaza. In the 1929 riots, the Jews living in Gaza were able to shelter in their hotel and escape without being killed.

On the way home the sign at the parking lot near First Station said “FULL” and it really was, as people are slowly coming back to the Jerusalem streets.

Jerusalem Municipality is promoting culture with multiple sponsored events.

Coming back, a new kosher restaurant at 1 Ben Maimon Street, at the site of the old Moment Cafe.

The extra-long Israeli flag is too short for the new buildings rising in Jerusalem.

It was a surprise to see work being done on the future Knesset Museum on King George Street.

A very good sign to see the tables out and a few people back in Kikar Hamusica, Music Square.

These decorations were put up before the summer but seemed to only get attention now.

While the holiday decorations are up the holiday crowds stayed away by the millions this year.

But the volunteers and solidarity missions keep coming to Israel. This group of 18 young adults from around the world came for a first-hand experience to take back to their countries to support Israel. This is so important as social media is filled with lies, distortions, and denial. They are part of a Young Leadership Academy sponsored by KKL-JNF and WZO, each one an outstanding individual, and hope for the future.

Their last stop on the brief mission was at the Kotel, Western Wall, before heading home.

These female soldiers caught our attention as they came to pray.

This case of candles is located at the Kotel Plaza, in memory of the murdered and fallen on October 7.

As the world moves on, after 3 months, the candles are a sign to also remember the hostages.

For the holiday season, the Old City was sadly too quiet, with early evening looking like the middle of the night.

Even at the Hurva Synagogue, I could get a photo with no one in the image.

Also sad, is the Arab shuk, where the Arab vendors have missed another big holiday season.

A lone Jerusalem cat at First Station is also suffering from a lack of tourists.

However, to leave you on a brighter note, the new Jerusalem swimming pool and fitness center is open.

The pool is not Olympic-sized, but large and open all year round, the only comparison to the old one is its location. There is a baby pool outside ready for the summer. The fitness center upstairs is impressive.

The “Israel loves Biden” sign has been replaced with “You are great Congresswoman Elise Stefanik.”

Dana & Yakir got married last week. Love the flowers and bows decorating the wedding party cars.

So along with the sadness, life moves along. One day at a time. We wish Dana and Yakir a big mazel tov.

And hope to see you all soon on the Jerusalem streets. That’s it for 2023.

Jerusalem City of Contrast Under the Rockets from War

The Jerusalem streets were wonderful on a sunny December day, feeling like spring and all was well.

Then the next day is cold and wet and dreary. The threat of possible rockets is constant.

Time has become a blur as the war in Gaza rages on. Plus, rockets from Lebanon are killing soldiers, as residents from northern as well as southern cities have been evacuated. Many “safer” locations have had rockets from Gaza aimed at them as well. The loud booms of the Iron Dome interceptions are heard overhead in still too many locations as we approach Day 80 of a war Israel did not start or want.

In this time blur, it was a stark reminder of Hanukkah only a week before, when I finally got to Jaffa Gate, and the large menorah was still there. The Am Yisrael Chai banner is a sign of the times.

Mamilla Mall had more visible security.

But contrast to the past weeks, the Arab shoppers were back in the crowds as usual.

Near the Kotel, on the plaza of the Western Wall, an IDF ceremony was happening as the Kotel walls turned to gold in the afternoon sun, but without the usual supportive family crowds watching.

Interesting how many of the men went to put on tefillin after the young recruits were excused.

Also, some of the women went to pray before leaving Jerusalem’s Old City.

The number of people entering army service and the increase in interest in making aliyah is impressive.

What a contrast to what one might assume in wartime!

The work on the elevator from the Jewish Quarter is visible now, but the steps are still the only option.

Unless you walk this way –

and oh the contrast, to see this road without the usual constant flow of traffic.

And the Armenian road is easy to walk through without the cars being too close for comfort.

And the contrast for the holiday season to see the Plaza at Jaffa Gate without the holiday crowds – so sad.

However, at least the week started with something positive to share.

At Beit Ha’am, formerly the Gerard Behar Theater, off of Bezalel Street hosted a special event.

This was my first time inside, even though I walked by many times and watched the opening night crowds arrive in March 2022.

Before the Solidarity Concert in support of Israel, featuring the heads of European Opera Houses began, an announcement was made informing the audience that the theater is a protected space and therefore to stay put if an alarm sounds. Jerusalem has caught up with the North and South, we also have to know the closest safe location.

Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion was the first speaker of many on video presented on the large screen. In contrast to many performances, the opening song was HaTikvah by the opera singers.

From the Augsburg Opera House in Germany, the director shared his support for Israel.

Behind each performer, a background was projected, appropriate for the piece based on location.

Among the participating opera houses were the Copenhagen Philharmonic Orchestra,

and the Teatro del Maggio.

Compliments to the pianist who besides accompanying all the singers moderated the program.

Some faces and locations were easier to place together, such as the Geneva Opera House.

Culture and music should transcend politics, was the theme “knowing no borders.”

The colors and sounds were beautiful inside the theater in contrast to the war raging not too far away.

A fascinating evening of live opera was shared on a stage in Jerusalem for the public to attend for free.

The photos are a glimpse of the event, and snippets of the two-hour program are in this 9-minute video.

More photos were posted on Facebook HERE

And if you have only 2 minutes – Ott Maaten, director of the Estonia National Opera was my favorite speaker. Listen to part of his remarks. Hatikvah opened the evening and “If I Forget Jerusalem” was near the end.

A friend remarked later, where were Prague, Spain, Berlin, and the other major opera houses?

But to start the week after Hanukkah, the opera was a welcome relief from reality.

Back on the Jerusalem streets, the posters of the hostages are a reminder no one in Israel needs.

In contrast, to leave you with the beauty and color of birds of paradise,

and of the color of the clouds at sunset this time of year in Jerusalem, and all of Israel.

Fresh produce from volunteers helping Israeli farmers means the best does not go for export but stays on our tables to appreciate and enjoy.

And December in Israel means it’s strawberry season!

Even the strawberry packaging has an Israeli flag this year.

The holiday lights have been up all month at the YMCA in Jerusalem, Israel. Hoping to see more international tourists here next year in Jerusalem so all will be able to celebrate the holidays fully.

The Tower of David is offering holiday tours. There are markets to support artists open with free entrance from 9:30 – 2:30 pm again on Friday. We keep fighting terrorism, day by day, minute by minute, doing the best we can under the circumstances and a big welcome to all who have come to support Israel at this time.