Jerusalem City of Contrast Under the Rockets from War

The Jerusalem streets were wonderful on a sunny December day, feeling like spring and all was well.

Then the next day is cold and wet and dreary. The threat of possible rockets is constant.

Time has become a blur as the war in Gaza rages on. Plus, rockets from Lebanon are killing soldiers, as residents from northern as well as southern cities have been evacuated. Many “safer” locations have had rockets from Gaza aimed at them as well. The loud booms of the Iron Dome interceptions are heard overhead in still too many locations as we approach Day 80 of a war Israel did not start or want.

In this time blur, it was a stark reminder of Hanukkah only a week before, when I finally got to Jaffa Gate, and the large menorah was still there. The Am Yisrael Chai banner is a sign of the times.

Mamilla Mall had more visible security.

But contrast to the past weeks, the Arab shoppers were back in the crowds as usual.

Near the Kotel, on the plaza of the Western Wall, an IDF ceremony was happening as the Kotel walls turned to gold in the afternoon sun, but without the usual supportive family crowds watching.

Interesting how many of the men went to put on tefillin after the young recruits were excused.

Also, some of the women went to pray before leaving Jerusalem’s Old City.

The number of people entering army service and the increase in interest in making aliyah is impressive.

What a contrast to what one might assume in wartime!

The work on the elevator from the Jewish Quarter is visible now, but the steps are still the only option.

Unless you walk this way –

and oh the contrast, to see this road without the usual constant flow of traffic.

And the Armenian road is easy to walk through without the cars being too close for comfort.

And the contrast for the holiday season to see the Plaza at Jaffa Gate without the holiday crowds – so sad.

However, at least the week started with something positive to share.

At Beit Ha’am, formerly the Gerard Behar Theater, off of Bezalel Street hosted a special event.

This was my first time inside, even though I walked by many times and watched the opening night crowds arrive in March 2022.

Before the Solidarity Concert in support of Israel, featuring the heads of European Opera Houses began, an announcement was made informing the audience that the theater is a protected space and therefore to stay put if an alarm sounds. Jerusalem has caught up with the North and South, we also have to know the closest safe location.

Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion was the first speaker of many on video presented on the large screen. In contrast to many performances, the opening song was HaTikvah by the opera singers.

From the Augsburg Opera House in Germany, the director shared his support for Israel.

Behind each performer, a background was projected, appropriate for the piece based on location.

Among the participating opera houses were the Copenhagen Philharmonic Orchestra,

and the Teatro del Maggio.

Compliments to the pianist who besides accompanying all the singers moderated the program.

Some faces and locations were easier to place together, such as the Geneva Opera House.

Culture and music should transcend politics, was the theme “knowing no borders.”

The colors and sounds were beautiful inside the theater in contrast to the war raging not too far away.

A fascinating evening of live opera was shared on a stage in Jerusalem for the public to attend for free.

The photos are a glimpse of the event, and snippets of the two-hour program are in this 9-minute video.

More photos were posted on Facebook HERE

And if you have only 2 minutes – Ott Maaten, director of the Estonia National Opera was my favorite speaker. Listen to part of his remarks. Hatikvah opened the evening and “If I Forget Jerusalem” was near the end.

A friend remarked later, where were Prague, Spain, Berlin, and the other major opera houses?

But to start the week after Hanukkah, the opera was a welcome relief from reality.

Back on the Jerusalem streets, the posters of the hostages are a reminder no one in Israel needs.

In contrast, to leave you with the beauty and color of birds of paradise,

and of the color of the clouds at sunset this time of year in Jerusalem, and all of Israel.

Fresh produce from volunteers helping Israeli farmers means the best does not go for export but stays on our tables to appreciate and enjoy.

And December in Israel means it’s strawberry season!

Even the strawberry packaging has an Israeli flag this year.

The holiday lights have been up all month at the YMCA in Jerusalem, Israel. Hoping to see more international tourists here next year in Jerusalem so all will be able to celebrate the holidays fully.

The Tower of David is offering holiday tours. There are markets to support artists open with free entrance from 9:30 – 2:30 pm again on Friday. We keep fighting terrorism, day by day, minute by minute, doing the best we can under the circumstances and a big welcome to all who have come to support Israel at this time.

In Jerusalem, Hanukkah lights in the darkness

Hanukkah was over Friday night at sunset.

In Jerusalem, sirens sounded over the Jerusalem streets at 5:01 pm, as Shabbat services were to begin. People had to seek shelter. A stark reminder that the rockets from Gaza could still be headed to Jerusalem, Israel, not just along the Gaza border or the border in the north.

These large flags are displayed all over the roads, a reminder that we are at war.

These silent construction projects are a reminder of the Arab workers, who are not working.

But the clean-up crews from the Jerusalem municipality keep going strong to collect the trash.

On Hanukkah Cinema City was a popular family recreation site.

The OU Hanukkah event for Olim filled the Nefesh BeNefesh hall with young families.

A shortcut through the Supreme Court to the Knesset was not a good idea.

The gate to the path through the Rose Garden was locked.

Who knows if and when the Rose Garden will reopen again?

Or when the protest tent with the families of the hostages will close?

The National Library of Israel is gaining popularity and more readers are in the reading room.

The circulation desk is open and appears to be responsive.

A small coffee shop also is now open for people to drink and eat, and sit and talk.

These chairs and books are ready and waiting for the hostages to finally return home from captivity.

The Jay and Jeanie Schottenstein National Campus for Archaeology of Israel is across the street from the National Library and the Israel Museum and is next to the Bible Lands Museum Jerusalem, all near the Knesset.

It was open briefly to the public for two hours on Hanukkah. The entrance might appear modest.

Tours begin with the mosaic on the floor as you enter the building site.

But the outside appearance does deceive. It goes down 8 stories! I have waited to see what has been accomplished since my first visit in 2016!

The spaces were designed to be open to see the work being done.

The library had been a shell, with bare cement walls, but is now very impressive.

Multiple labs are open and appear to be operating.

This year was not a perfect festive eight days of Hanukkah.

The first night lighting the first candle on the Jerusalem streets,

and other nights I missed doing the usual big tours and crowds.

However, I noticed the lemons were turning yellow against the blue sky,

and the new winter grass is bright green.

While the clouds at night have been mostly pink.

A simpler eight days of Hanukkah 5784 have passed.

The colorful candles of Hanukkah have burned down and are put away for this year.

However, we continue to believe good must triumph over evil.

Colors, Lights, and Highlights it’s Hanukkah Time in Jerusalem

The holiday of Hanukkah is a celebration of miracles and light over darkness.

How does one celebrate a joyous holiday under the cloud of a war when there are too many funerals?

Enjoying the colors in the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens this time of year was a good way to start the week.

The lion on the nearby Jerusalem street was also looking bright and colorful.

The decorative holiday street lights were turned back on.

Posters for holiday events went up along the Jerusalem streets. Notice though it’s Jewish Film Week, the term festival is not used, as it seemed inappropriate in wartime.

Many activities for children are still being offered in the various museums and theaters.


Despite the war, the Sam Spiegel Incubator for International Cinema is to open on December 11, 2023.

It is located in the Beit Ha’am Complex off of Bezalel Street in Jerusalem, not far from Sacher Park.

This is the entrance to the Sam Spiegel building

across the plaza from the Ha’mal Otaf Salon for clothing.

Beautifully displayed clothing of all sizes, donated to be given for free, to any of the people displaced from their homes in the southern Israeli towns, who are being housed in Jerusalem, in private homes of strangers, and 70 Jerusalem hotels.

Volunteers work to make sure everything is organized and presented attractively.

Plus a special children’s corner has games, toys, and books in time for Hanukkah.

Walking by the Jewish Agency building I noticed for the first time that the menorah on the roof is for seven candles, not eight for Hanukkah.

However, there was a Hanukkah menorah, hanukia, outside Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s Residence.

The attached sign explains that this is the hanukia of the Kibbutz Nir Oz dining hall.

Hanukkah at night–these lights inside highlight the numerous decorations on the window.

Jerusalem restaurants often have a hanukia in the window,

as does this beauty shop

and this store in Mamilla Mall.

The big hanukia of Chabad of Talbiya was back in Mamilla Mall with live music planned for each night.

After the hanukia was lit, the lively music was accompanied by singing and dancing.

With a smaller crowd than in past years, sufganiyot, traditional jelly donuts were plentiful.

You did not have to be Jewish to participate, these volunteers came from the US on a mission.

Two men came from Tel Aviv and were having a great time. They were sympathetic when I bit into a donut and realized it was a yucky chocolate in the center, not the anticipated jelly sufgania.

Here was a hanukia in a dreidel, not easy to photograph without reflections of the store signs. It was good to see people enjoying Hanukkah in one of Jerusalem’s tourist attractions.

The walls of the Old City were illuminated with a light projection near Jaffa Gate.

The plaza outside Jaffa Gate was sadly empty for a Hanukkah night. However, it was easier to get a clear shot of the new ‘I love Jerusalem’ hanukia.

Notice the Muslim woman out with her young children in Mamilla Mall. There are fewer Arab shoppers than usual, but even during this wartime, they still come, even after dark at night.

The Michael Levin Base was back at StandWithUs with the Solomon Brothers entertaining the lone soldiers and bnei sherut volunteers with their lively repertoire. Holidays for those without family in Israel can be difficult and being with a group is very important.

The special guest of the evening was Colonel Richard Kemp. If you do not know him, I am a long-time fan, take the time to look him up.

On the way home, I went to check out the lights at the YMCA. I think there are more this year.

People were out Friday in the warm weather, eating and talking at cafes, and preparing for Shabbat.

A hanukiah on the Chabad cars is a sign of the season, but there are way too many Chabad celebrations to attend them all.

Hanukkah Sameach

There were more parties, Hanukkah events, and musical performances, on the first night and every night.

Ready with the extras for our family Hanukkah party planned for tonight.

Best wishes for miracles and lights for Bringing the hostages home now.

With the courage of a lion, we will win.

Happy Hanukkah!