Passover in Jerusalem: what you did not see

Where to begin this week!?

The Jerusalem streets experienced holiday highs, as well as extreme lows, and I am not just referring to the weather that has gone from summer to winter and now back to summer.

I decided to share what was different and unexpected this year.

The first surprise is for those who followed the news prior to Sunday, when Passover, Easter, and Ramadan were all to be celebrated in the Old City.

With all the talk of threats and pending trouble in Jerusalem and the Old City, there was no closure of the Jerusalem street between Mamilla Mall and the David Citadel Hotel. Gone was the usual big ugly closure truck.

Also, on Sunday morning, heavier security was not apparent inside Jaffa Gate either. A sign pointed to the Kotel, Western Wall.

In the Rova, the Jewish Quarter, a large tent was set up by the Hurva Synagogue and provided a shaded place to sit, which was a good idea on the sunny day.

Birkat Kohanim, the Priestly Blessing was said twice on Sunday morning. I missed the first time by a few minutes, and many people left. Here you see that the plaza was not full.

But it’s hard to count how many attend, as people are also watching from rooftops and lookout points around the Jewish Quarter.

From the top of the Aish Building where I was standing, there is a good view of the Al Aqsa Mosque. After the previous riots there, the windows were finally fixed. However, I noticed at least one was broken again.

With a zoom lens, here is what the Temple Mount looked like in the morning during the Birkat Kohanim. Not exactly what my social media was sharing over and over about police and violence.

At the other end, over the Kotel, the Dome of the Rock was shining in the blazing sun with police nearby, though not needed that day.

The Kessim have the right idea, those umbrellas the Ethiopian religious leaders carry are smart protection on the sunny Passover day.

Closer to the Kotel, men were crowded in with the Kohanim in the front.

Security personnel watched, from all directions, but missing were the helicopters, drones, and security balloons seen in years past.

While I waited for the second Birkat Kohanim to be recited, I took time to notice the dome of the Sharei Tefilah Synagogue is slowly progressing.

The view toward the Dung Gate where buses usually enter was off-limits to vehicular traffic.

A sign marking the exit hung over the gate, but few people were leaving.

Birkat Kohanim, men covered their heads with white tallis during prayer.

While the dignitaries watch the crowd from above,

and others watch from afar.

Selfies.

I wonder how many thousands of selfies were taken that morning?

During the prayer, you can see the crowd was fuller. In past years, the whole area might have been full. But the tens of thousands who came all week even after the media warned of pending trouble was remarkable.

Near the entrance to the Kotel Plaza, you could see people arriving, getting drinking water, and in the little shed-like area the Jewish people waiting to go on the Temple Mount.

On Sunday small groups were allowed until 11:00 am. During the last 10 days of Ramadan, those trips are forbidden. Eid al Fitr, the celebration at the end of the Ramadan month of fasting is at the end of this week.

The exits were clearly marked.

Pedestrians walked away from the Kotel, thousands at a time.

The popcorn and cotton candy vendors were in positions again as was a parked ZAKA motorcycle. With tens of thousands of people, there were no reported serious problems in spite of the heat, making it a good day.

And people were still arriving, all day and all week. The tourists are back!

Having been in a crushing crowd once in the Old City on the way to Birkat Kohanim, I appreciate that there is better enforcement of pedestrian traffic flow. This woman was not happy to follow the plan, however, it is much safer.

As you see, when I was leaving, people were coming to go inside

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and outside Jaffa Gate, and the same during the rest of the week.

While Birkat Kohanim is an annual highlight, there were activities galore for families, as school was out and tourists were around all week.

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One event was a special children’s program at the Tower of David.

Mamilla Mall was busy and watched closely by security.

Amazing after the big holiday meals, there were still long lines waiting for food. Plus, there were lines for car rentals on Sunday.

I thought it amusing that this shop was open during the pandemic more than the others in Mamilla Mall, but for Passover, the window was covered.

There was a new way to patrol Mamilla Avenue.

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Jerusalem is colorful, but one new art exhibit was black and white.

People were in Gan Sacher, Sacher Park when the sun came out. On cold rainy days, I assume it was not so popular, but I did not go to check it out.

The Jerusalem Theater was warm and dry and the impressive quilts of the Israel Quilt Association lined the lobby walls again – more HERE

There you have a taste of the Holiday of Matzah in Jerusalem.

Now the weather hopefully will not have the extremes of hot and cold that we suffered last week. The annual ‘Yoms‘ with their highs and lows, begin with Yom HaShoah, Holocaust Remembrance Day Monday night, April 17, this year.

One of the first events for Yom HaShoah was the Zikaron BaSalon meeting hosted at Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s Official Residence.

The special musical numbers included Kobi Oz and Yonatan Raisel, but more on that for next time.

So much more is happening on the Jerusalem streets if you missed it –

see you Next Year in Jerusalem!

Jerusalem Streets Preparing for Passover, Protests, and Spring Holiday Time

The week before Pesach, Passover, many houses are turned upside down and kitchens are cleaned and changed over for the holiday.

Children are out of school – but are they ready to help and clean?

The current Knesset is on recess after a tumultuous session. 

The good news, the Knesset Museum is showing positive signs of progress.

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One place you did not find me was standing on the street across from Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s Residence waiting to photograph Knesset Members coming and going for meetings on a judicial reform compromise.

I did pass by Natan Sharansky but decided not to put my camera in his face.

Not only pots, pans, and kitchenware are out on the Jerusalem streets, but large displays of toilet paper stand there next to the fresh produce.

Some streets were easier to access than others this week due to the protests.

Plenty of Israeli flags were flying above the streets, as usual before the spring holidays, while others were carried to protest locations.

People came from all directions, for both a protest against the government, as well as one supporting Judicial reform. Sorry for those who arrived in Jerusalem by train on Monday and had to walk, as buses were not getting through the blocked streets.

The fountain at France Square was behind a barrier. I will spare you photos of the stronger metal barriers found on more and more Jerusalem streets.

In spite of it all –

Signs have gone up on old buildings to go higher in remodeling projects.

The Jerusalem skyline is changing as new buildings go higher and higher.

One hundred and twenty-five years later, Theodore Herzl would certainly not recognize Jerusalem today.

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Beit Avi Chai has new posters announcing spring and summer events.

A new non-profit called OurPeople was established to help Russian-speaking Olim who have come recently in increasing numbers.

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This is one room in the new business complex that OurPeople opened this past week on King George Street in downtown Jerusalem.

Love those old tiled floors in all the rooms.

The spring weather has not been the best, but nevertheless, there were activities for young families in the parks on Shabbat.

And on Friday there was a bike ride around Jerusalem. Those Jerusalem streets were not closed for long when the dozens of bikes went by.

The Community Center on HaPalmach Street held a mini-fair on Friday. The weather was cold, but the families attending seemed to be enjoying the events, especially those inside. Notice the box outside for food donations of chametz, food not for Passover use goes to those in need.

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It seems as if all the Jerusalem flower beds are constantly dug up and replanted with new flowers for the spring holiday time.

And weddings! So many weddings with people coming from around the world to get married in Jerusalem before Passover.

The hotel had changed over to Passover-only food. But unless you saw the sign on the front door or missed seeing bread on the table you would never have known. Amazing what can be done using potatoes these days!

Government offices are to be closed from Wednesday, April 5, through Saturday, April 15, 2023. But the rest of the country will be busy exploring and enjoying nature parks and museums.

In Jerusalem, there are too many things happening to mention now.

Will have to see how many I am able to attend in the short time of Chol HaMoed, the intermediate days this year, starting with Birkat Cohanim, Priestly Blessing scheduled for next Sunday morning.

Happy Passover on the wall of Old City Jerusalem near Jaffa Gate

Happy Passover

from

The Real Jerusalem Streets

Passover in Jerusalem

How is this Passover different than all other Passovers?

Passing people while walking on the Jerusalem streets, I think they look familiar. However, I am not certain if I know them from 20 years ago, 2 years ago, from online meetups, or if they look like their parents?

As the sun came out over the Jerusalem streets, people returned to Jerusalem’s Old City by Jaffa Gate – in spite of terrorist threats and rioters.

In every generation, they rise against us to annihilate us. שבכל דור ודור עומדים עלינו לכלותנו

But the Holy One, Blessed is He, rescues us from their hand. והקודש ברוך הוא מצילנו מידם

Not my words, but from the Passover Hagadah, from the paragraph that begins – והיא שעמדה – which we recite year after year at the Passover seder.

First, the different look at Jaffa Gate, lovely at night with new lighting.

For the first time, an international food festival was held outside the walls of the Old City the nights before Passover. The array of different kosher cuisine, beginning with the US and burgers near the Tower of David was impressive.

Tables and chairs were placed at the food venues for patrons to sit and eat. I was amused by the signs ‘not to sit on the rocks’ which were covered by the fabric.

Entertainers were out along the route of this new food festival.

I decided a short video would share the event better, with its music.

I was out on Palm Sunday, but I was late getting to the Old City. That’s why I was excited to see a man walking in the distance with a long green thing.

Only when I got home I realized it was a light bulb, not a palm branch.

However, later at Mamilla Mall, there were still a few of the faithful out on the streets with their palm branches in hand after dark as I headed home.

For Orthodox Palm Sunday, I arrived in the Old City in time to see people walking with long, short, and decorated palm branches.

What is different this year, is that Passover, Easter, and Ramadan all also fell on Sunday. It was good to see the Old City streets filling with visitors and international tourists again.

Security was visible at critical junctions in the Old City.

The Rova, Jewish Quarter, was alive again after two years of corona closings. Tour guides were out again sharing their knowledge with family groups.

Passover matza was being given away outside of Jaffa Gate.

And freshly baked Arab beigele were for sale just inside Jaffa Gate.

The Passover rolls looked like real bread in Mamilla Mall.

Walking from Jaffa Gate toward the Kotel, the Western Wall, the new pizza shop is open for Passover.

Birkat Cohanim at Western Wall

The large Birkat Cohanim, Priestly Blessing at the Kotel, is again to be held twice to keep the size of crowds in the Old City down and is scheduled for Monday and Wednesday. Monday morning saw the plaza full for the online live broadcast. There’s still time for you to participate live on Wednesday.

However, already on Sunday, there were people arriving all day.

I wonder how many noticed the broken windows in the Al Aqsa mosque?

Trudging home in the heat, after spending hours walking and photographing in the Old City, how nice it was to be offered a bottle of water. Thank you Iriya, Jerusalem.

Four days before Passover is יו”ד ניסן Yud Nissan. For those not familiar, I decided to share a special trip in 2019.

Israel cleared the landmines, then a pandemic shut down the tourist site.

But as the holidays and tourists return to the Jerusalem streets, they will see the Jerusalem and Israeli flags flying over the streets.

Signs are up for a blue and white Yom Haatzmaut, Israel Independence Day.

But first, we have a week of Pesach, Passover to celebrate with thousands back on the Jerusalem streets and many more away in national park sites enjoying the warm weather and water spots filled after winter rain.

Much more on Passover next time!

Chag Pesach Sameach!