Schneller Compound Connecting Past and Future

The corona cloud is finally lifting. Jerusalem is slowly coming alive again after over a year of closings and restrictions.

Have you seen behind the old stone walls of the Schneller Compound?

It’s time to get back to what’s happening on and off the Jerusalem streets.

Schneller Orphanage, also known as the Syrian Orphanage, was built by Johann Ludwig Schneller, a German Lutheran missionary who came to Jerusalem in 1854. 

In 1855, Schneller bought land from the Lifta village with the intention of living with and missionizing to the local Arab population.

Their house was constructed from 1855–56, but Schneller and his family were attacked multiple times by robbers. As we have said before security problems are not new, and have been an issue too often in the past. The Schneller family was forced to move to safety inside the Old City walls.

The German Protestant orphanage was one of the first structures to be built outside the Old City, around the same time as Sir Moses Montefiore was working to establish Mishkenot Sha’ananim. Over time as the situation became more stable, Jerusalem did expand outside the walls. The orphanage grew and operated from 1860 to 1940.

At the beginning of World War II, the British mandatory government deported the Germans to Australia and turned the compound into a closed military camp – with the distinction of being the largest ammunition stockpile in the Middle East.

On March 17, 1948, the British abandoned the camp and the Etzioni Brigade of the Haganah took it over, and used it as a base of operations during the 1948 Israeli War of Independence. 


For the next 60 years, the site served as an Israeli army base known as Camp Schneller.

The army vacated the premises in 2008 and for years there was no decision regarding what to do with this huge piece of prime Jerusalem real estate.

In 2011, the compound began to be developed for luxury housing. But first, the Israeli Antiques Authority checks every site to see what is under the ground before buildings go up. In 2017, the Jerusalem Municipality decided to divide up the compound with a portion of the complex for private residential construction, and the main old building to serve as a unique experiential, interactive museum and visitor center and community center.   

A Roman olive oil factory was uncovered and unveiled in the spring of 2016.

Progress over the past six years has been slow and complicated.

Every room in the main complex needs full repair and restoration.

Parts of the main structure have been redone with attention to detail.

Everything of value was stolen by vandals during the years of neglect.

The old clock though was still up on the tower.

The interior courtyard has several rooms which are to be renovated for community meetings and neighborhood activities.

Here an original stone floor has been exposed.

Room in need of repair Schneller

Did you know Schneller was the first to use metal beams in ceilings? Ceilings in Jerusalem had not been flat but made of salvaged wood from boat hulls brought to Jerusalem from the port of Jaffo.

It will take time and money to restore Schneller as a functioning property

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from its neglected and dilapidated condition.

From the roof, the Beis Yaakov school, one of eight original buildings on the Schneller property can be seen clearly. Each building is named for a city, where the German donors lived.

New housing and new Jerusalem buildings can be found in all directions.

However, I thought this was the most dramatic view.

The first time I saw this part of Schneller Compound it looked like this.

And today it looks like a magazine picture-perfect model community.

Building cranes abound everywhere in Jerusalem, Israel, as construction and change are going at a rapid pace.

Schneller Compound is to house a new interactive museum to feature Jewish communities, kehillot, from around the world.

“This isn’t going to be another boring museum filled with artifacts you forget about after ten minutes, it will be a celebration of Jewish culture that will leave visitors feeling excited about being a part of the Jewish nation,” explained Hanan Benayahu Director of Kehillot Yisrael Institute.

“We all have roots from different communities, but do we have any idea how to connect to those roots? Being able to experience the richness of each community – its customs, literature, poetry art, music, liturgy, and folktales – will create a sense of connection, no matter where your family came from.

We want visitors to feel excited and proud, to say, ‘Yes, I recognize my Jewish culture. I am part of this Jewish nation.”

Stay tuned for what happens next in Jerusalem off of Malchei Israel Street.

Hopefully, international visitors will be back on the Jerusalem streets soon to see what has happened for themselves.

Tel Aviv and Jerusalem Under Attack

Oh, Jerusalem!

Jerusalem, the center of the world.

Jerusalem, Israel, the center of world attention.

Thanks to rockets from Gaza, more people heard of Yom Yerushalayim, Jerusalem Day, this year – which was interrupted as multiple incoming rocket sirens blasted warning over the Holy City.

But I was in Tel Aviv near a quiet park this Yom Yerushalayim

where the flowers were blooming.

The Tel Aviv food delivery men rode bikes, not motorcycles.

The bus stop images and ads were not the same in Tel Aviv,

even the street libraries look different to those in Jerusalem.

But then…

The Tel Aviv street cafes filled the night before with diners enjoying the pleasant evening weather, under threat of rocket fire, were deserted on what should have been a busy night.

My pleasant loft rental had no bomb shelter, so this was the safest spot to take pillows and blankets for two nights of sirens and loud booms.

However, a favorite sight in Tel Aviv was the new shuk, as three window washers were at work cleaning the large panes of glass even as rockets were being aimed from Gaza.

Back in Jerusalem, after Hamas and PIJ fired over 4,000 rockets and internet sources stirred up masses, there were reports of riots on the Temple Mount. “The hudna (cease-fire) is only temporary and conditional,” was shouted over social media “and we are raising our head in this city and saying to everyone: you must always protect our holy places and our mosque.”

Finally, on Friday afternoon, I had a chance to go see what was really happening in the Old City of Jerusalem.

It was quiet. A few yeshiva students were arriving, no one else.

Security near the Jaffa Gate entrance to the Muslim Quarter and Arab shuk, was not as I expected – at times no one appeared to be watching.

An Arab woman was shopping as usual in Mamilla Mall.

The Jewish Quarter was very quiet, way too quiet.

It was not a good day for this vendor with his table set on the steps down to the Kotel, Western Wall, where the elevator construction has begun.

The Friday afternoon at the Kotel crowds were missing.

The newly resurfaced plaza area empty except for two security officers.

Corona divisions have been removed, so there was plenty of room in the men’s section, on the sunny, but not too hot afternoon.

Have we ever seen so few women at the Kotel on a Friday afternoon?

The remains of the tree set on fire by Muslim firecrackers was still visible

But a sorrier sight was the empty roads below at the gates of the Old City.

The Armenian way so often bustling with a stream of cars, had no traffic.

One vendor was open, but there was no business from passing tourists.

Reports of rioters and trouble, and the Old City streets were empty.

The safety door of this Armenian convent building is a physical reminder that Jerusalem has had many attackers over the millennia.

Like the dragons’ teeth used decades ago for security in previous eras.

The Walls of the Old City were built to keep invaders out of Jerusalem.

So folks, on Friday afternoon, I could not find those riots which scared people away. Israeli security was out and around, but appeared relaxed.

In these upside down times, it is hard to know what to believe or think.

Of over 4,000 rockets from Gaza aimed at Israel, hundreds landed in Gaza.

How many caused damage and death to their own we will never know.

You will see the sad emotional photos of cement terror tunnels and military buildings destroyed in Gaza by big bad Israel.

But also know the Gaza that you don’t see that my friend shares on Twitter.

The latest “mini-war” is over. Though does anyone assume there won’t be another one in the future as Hamas rearms with the humanitarian materials once again sent to rebuild?

Hamas spokesperson Bassem Naim claimed to Sky News that international law does not apply to them – they can fire rockets from civilian areas & target Israeli civilians.

In the past 15 years, we have had Summer Rains, Cast Lead, Pillar of Defense, Protective Edge, Black Belt and Guardian of the Walls. What name will the computer generate next time? (They do sound better in Hebrew.)

Meanwhile, back in Jerusalem, with corona slowly becoming a memory, let’s hope the Israel Festival is the first of many Jerusalem events to return.

Time to go back to complaining that Jerusalem is one big construction site.

Which streets will be closed next, after they finish King David Street?

Oh and will there be a new government or 5th election?

The only thing that seems certain now – President Reuven Rivlin’s term is over very soon. Either Yitzhak Herzog or Miriam Perez are in the running for the position to be voted on by the Israeli Knesset.

Stay well out there.

Hope to see you all soon on the Jerusalem streets.

Week Filled with Ups and Downs in Jerusalem

Oh what a week this was!

I had to do this post over and over again.

A week of extreme ups and downs, more than the usual rollercoaster.

The flags were flying high as the last week in April began.

Israeli flags draped down on the Israel Museum.

The wind was blowing so hard, the canvas police post had to be held down.

Every day I walked a different route so I could share the news. One scene was this building rising and changing the Jerusalem skyline over Jaffa Road.

The winter igloo capsules at First Station were being removed and simple shades were taking their place as the summer weather arrived.

The new National Library building exterior is nearing completion.

The new Knesset Museum interior is finally beginning renovations.

The new municipal bike stations are being prepared in popular locations.

The week also began in Gan Haatzmaut, Independence Park with a ‘Justice for Sarah Halimi’ rally. When I tried to give directions to a couple in French, only a fractured Hebrew phrase came out of my mouth. Around the world, protests were held after the French court let her murderer go free.

Call it French Square or Paris Square, it’s been dug up and work has begun.

Then the Mayor’s Office announced a long list of planned new road work.

I lost count of how many times these have been knocked down replaced on the newly redone street by Paris Fountain.

Finally, there are signs up directing the way to the Kotel, Western Wall.

The week started with bagpipers out in their tartans for Palm Sunday.

Women in the Old City walked carrying a palm. Yesterday was the ‘Holy Fire’ and today is Orthodox Easter Sunday and holiday crowds are returning.

On Mondays, the bar mitzvahs go all day long, with songs and prayers.

I think it went a bit too long for one young fellow. I assume the corona dividers going back up was not his issue, more the long day and afternoon sun that got him down.

New welcome signs have been put up with corona regulations.

Progress finally is visible on the elevator up to the Old City from the Kotel.

Flags and flowers were up in the Armenian Quarter and looking good.

Floral wreaths were placed down along the wall for the April 25th Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day commemoration.

Then a few days later, the dedication of a new 180 car parking lot was held.

This was the site as archeologists went down below street level last month. It seems a major hotel will not arise any time soon in the Armenian Quarter.

But I predict traffic will increase greatly here as soon as the news of newly available convenient parking spreads.

New signs for the May 5th Jerusalem challenge race,

and May 14th special cycling event in Jerusalem went up near Jaffa Gate.

Ramadan continues another two weeks with signs posted each week for street closings around the Old City as tens of thousands of Muslims arrive to pray.

Shopping during the days of Ramadan is allowed, eating begins at sundown.

It was also Pesach Sheni, a month after Passover, and I found one man dressed for the occasion walking from the Old City to the light rail train.

Oh how nice, “return to routine” signs were up.

Also ‘Jerusalem is proud of you’ signs were posted over the streets.

New blue information signs are now on historical buildings of interest and popped up in many neighborhoods and popular Jerusalem streets.

And colorful flowers line many Jerusalem streets, I put more HERE.

By Thursday afternoon Lag B’Omer preparations were well underway,

Last year during the pandemic, Lag B’Omer was broadcast live from Meron.

Traditionally Mt. Meron, not Jerusalem, is the place to be on Lag B’Omer.

But large bonfires were prepared ready for the night long celebrations.

Fires were to be limited this year to only designated areas in Jerusalem. There were fewer than in past years, the smoke was not as strong, but we closed our windows anyway as night fell.

As I have written before Lag B’Omer is not my favorite holiday. Two years ago, for Lag B’Omer, I shared my photos of Meron on a quiet day.

This year, I was watching again on YouTube Live stream as the huge crowd was singing, responding loudly to the declarations recited at the end of the Yom Kippur service, and dancing…and singing in unison – Ani Ma’amin, I believe…

Then, in what seemed like a blink of an eye, the joy turned to tragedy.

What a night!

What a week of extreme highs and lows.

Sunday was declared a national day of mourning. The flags have been lowered to half-mast. However, there’s no wind to blow the flag over the Knesset. Today only rising temperatures.

Photo credit: Mark Neyman GPO

On Friday, President Rivlin lit 45 memorial candles, one for each life lost.

The greatest civilian disaster in Israel’s history reaches and touches everyone. This was a week of so many ups and downs

Photo credit: Mark Neyman GPO

Today President Rivlin visited the L. Greenberg National Institute of Forensic Medicine at Abu Kabir to thank the staff for their tireless work in identifying the victims of the Har Meron tragedy.

And as President Rivlin said to the families of the victims: “It is hard to grasp the pain of the families who saw in Shabbat not knowing the fate of their loved ones and came from Shabbat to the cemeteries. I am with you in your pain; all Israelis are with you in your pain.”

When it is hard to find the right words, I will end with the traditional text appropriate to comfort mourners:

המקום ינחם אתכם בתוך שאר אבלי ציון וירושלים