Back on the Jerusalem Streets

My grandfather left Russia as a teenager for the US in the early 1900s.

Often I have thought about how different life would have been if he stayed in Odessa with his brother. Families were kept apart for decades by the Iron Curtain. A medical emergency and a “random” encounter involving a neighbor and a photo brought our cousins from the FSU back into our family and our lives.

Especially this week the impact has been hard to ignore.

The sun was shining after days of rain, so glad it was nice to get out again and the first thing I did was walk to Jaffa Road.

Yes, it was true. The Putin Pub had covered over its sign and only a faint ‘P’ could be seen. No, I was not the only one stopping to take photos.

But much more to share of what was happening in Jerualem this past week.

The changing Jerusalem, Israel, skyline will be a shock to those who have not been here the past two years during the pandemic closings.

Though most restrictions are to be lifted on March 1st, there are plenty of tourists walking on the Jerusalem streets now. Tour guides had extremely difficult times during the past two years. It was good to see my friend with a nice group again.

After missing last year, the Conference of Presidents was back in town.

New Conference CEO William Daroff had a lot to smile about.

In one of the sessions on the record and extremely timely, the US, China, and Russia, oh, and Iran situation were discussed. Anna Greifman stated the West does not understand Putin’s ideology and the Russian mindset. Some of those “experts” who said he was merely threatening are those pushing for concessions to Iran.

This was a conference very much still concerned with corona. Hand sanitizer and tea anyone?

Each day a negative antigen test was required to attend.

Networking in the hall while waiting for corona tests results was not so bad.

Back in Jerusalem, Erick Stakelbeck was filming in the Conference Green Room.

US Ambassador Tom Nides attended two nights in a row. On Monday night he was there briefly but sat with Bahrain and Israelis at the feelgood session featuring discussions on the Abraham Accords.

Charge d’affaires Ines Demiri of the Kosovo Embassy in Jerusalem spoke.

The Ambassador from Morocco told of how he had covered most of Israel since he arrived, there are so many Moroccans for him to meet.

The Ambassador from the United Arab Emirates also spoke in English to the dinner crowd, consisting of mainly American presidents and leaders of Jewish organizations.

The positive atmosphere and exchanging of business cards,

and of course selfies. Who would have imagined this two years ago when the CoP last was able to meet in Jerusalem.

They boasted of being the last conference before corona shut the borders and were proud to be the first back in Jerusalem, Israel.

But I did not hang around for dinner or the rest of the night program. While some night spots are still shuttered and dark, the Shaon Horef, Winter Noise street festival was back for the first of four Monday nights.

This colorful light projection was on Shushan Street, advertised as the main location of the event.

Though the evening was cool, thousands were out on the streets for entertainment. This year an app was available with information on times and performances.

Food and drinks were available in the area, not the most fashionable one, as you can see, but that is the idea, to bring people back to these streets.

I was back for a daytime photo to share and he wanted his photo taken.

The fashionably dressed tourists were back in Mamilla Mall.

It has been a long time since I have seen such a large busload of tourists headed to the Monastery of the Cross.

There are protest signs near the Supreme Court building,

and a protest tent near the Knesset,

but next to the Prime Minister’s official residence, it’s quiet enough just to stroll by.

Purim and days of celebration are back soon to Shushan Street.

Jerusalem Marathon signs are being posted for races at the end of March.

Even though the Omicron seems to be hitting many who have been careful for the past two years, the Jerusalem streets are filling with multilingual voices again.

A new Jerusalem photo op for tourists awaits near the Old City.

Hope to see you soon on or off the Jerusalem streets!

February Signs in Jerusalem

Another very up and down week with the Jerusalem weather, constantly changing from winter to spring–almost summer-like.

When the sun came out, or at least the rain stopped, it was time to get out and walk and see what was new happening as people are returning to the Jerusalem streets. Yes, even some tourists are back!

First, the Jerusalem shopping area along Jaffa Road was busy, a positive sign of things in Jerusalem returning to normal and coming back to life.

Purim costumes on display – a sure sign Purim is a month away.

This sign was posted inside the Kosovo Embassy in Jerusalem for the celebration of 14 years of Kosovo independence held on February 17th.

Charge d’affaires Ines Demiri posed near her country’s flag with each dignitary as they arrived, here smiling with Deputy Mayor Fleur Hassan Nahoum who represented Jerusalem municipality.

Representing Israel at the event was Minister Matan Kahana who spoke to the standing-room-only crowd, including Ambassadors to Israel.

This was after the green pass restriction was lifted, but as you see most people wore masks except when speaking or eating. It’s been two years or more since I saw some of the people, and there were plenty of comments about masks and recognizing each other at the feel-good evening.

The week began with these FREEDOM signs arriving in Jerusalem, Israel on vehicles from all parts of the country, copying the Canadian convoy.

Assembling near the Knesset, protesters posted signs on the menorah in the traffic circle near the main entrance, certainly not feel-good ones.

One day there was a giant covid virus near the menorah, and people dressed in costumes. Ready for Purim or not-for-Purim?

Food and tents and wood-burning stoves – these people came prepared.

Shabbat morning with the green pass requirement lifted, the Jerusalem Great Synagogue had 75 people attending according to my friend’s count.

I walked by the “FREEDOM” tent city on Shabbat morning and counted about the same number of tents as there were people in the 1200-seat shul.

A friend in Hong Kong said the Ohel Leah Synagogue was closed on Shabbat due to pandemic restrictions, and there is a two-week quarantine restriction.

Here in Jerusalem, hundreds are protesting. Last year it was anti-Bibi. This year it’s anti-government. At least near the Knesset, there are very few residents who will be disturbed by the noise, as opposed to the noisy protests that were held near Balfour Street.

Across Eliezer Kaplan Street from the Knesset, I found it more exciting to see that the construction fence around the new Israel National Library was removed and landscaping has started.

New signs are going to be needed as the major project progresses.

I noticed some new signs for modest dress in Meah Shearim.

For those who don’t know the Jerusalem streets, Meah Shearim is right across the street from what is called “east” Jerusalem. Shimon Hatzadik/ Sheikh Jara is minutes from this spot.

Now, this was a sign I had to share. So guess where I had to go?

Right – on Hanevim Street!

Walking past the Ethiopian Consulate constructed in 1928,

the large building is not looking good these days through the shuttered gate.

These signs and the entrance gate down the street were hard to pass,

without peeking into the gate of the new hotel. Quite a contrast to the old stone buildings on the street with ongoing renovations.

There is much more on the historic and busy Hanaviim Street with Conrad Shick’s home so large it is hard to photograph with non-stop traffic.

One more sign, “Continued path blocked” – I did not obey this week.

The path by Sir Charles Clore Hill Gardens has been under construction and has not been passable for some time.

There is still work to be done to fix the under-road passage to Sacher Park.

But, though I would only go there in the day in the past, new lights make this a much more desirable way to walk in the future.

And new seats have been placed along the path with either a view of the Knesset and Israel Museum or facing away from the afternoon sun.

Monastery in Valley of the Cross in Jerusalem

The valley below and to the Israel Museum is a gorgeous green now and

when the sun shines with the red flowers, the best signs of spring in Jerusalem.

Abraham Lincoln Street sign new the YMCA in Jerusalem, Israel

Since it’s February, in the US it’s Presidents Birthday weekend, which means it’s time again for the Jerusalem street signs for Lincoln, pronounced by Israelis as Link-o-lin, and occasionally Avraham,

Sign for Jerusalem Washington Street.

and Washington Street. Does anyone local say George Washington Street?

And back around to where I started this whirlwind Jerusalem tour, if you walk between Lincoln and Washington Streets, you will find the sign and flag flying outside the Kosovo Embassy in Jerusalem.

Lots more happening on the Jerusalem streets, but enough for now, more next time.

Take care and stay well.

Jerusalem Inside and Out

Is the winter weather getting you down?

Jerusalem has had cold and wet days, where the dampness chills to the bones, including inside the old stone buildings.

In only a few days last week, I attended two zoom funerals and learned that other people were not well.

So the sun was shining this morning and it was warm. I decided to get out and walk before the weather could go from spring to winter – again.

My social media is filled with flowers from the South, however, I love to walk in the Valley of the Cross and see the red against the green, much closer to home. Plus, no boring flat fields in the Jerusalem landscape.

If you want to see good landscaping and be warm–warm enough to fog your lenses–the new Butterfly House near the Zoo in Jerusalem is for you.

More on the butterflies at a later time, it is closer to the Israel Aquarium in Jerusalem, which is down the road from the zoo.

The Aquarium was one of the last places I visited and toured before corona shut down the Jerusalem streets and much of the world.

Back this week, it was good to hear the voices of children on tours. The volunteer diver was at work with someone watching that he was safe in the tank. Lots more on the butterflies and fish later, I had come for a special media opening event.

Artist Beverly Barkat was sharing the three-year intricate process that began with taking plastic waste collected around the world and brought to her doorstep and studio in Jerusalem.

She took those dozens of colors to form her Earth Poetica which is to go on exhibition in the lobby at New York City’s World Trade Tower. It was commissioned and designed for New York City but opened in Jerusalem for a six-month exhibit at the entrance of the Aquarium. A special stairway observation platform was built in the Aquarium lobby for visitors to view from various angles.

Hear the artist explain a bit about her complicated and impressive project.

Michal Herzog took to the podium at Beit Hanasi, the Israeli President’s residence to speak eloquently at the Shloshim (end of thirty-day mourning period) for her mother-in-law Aura Herzog z”l. The President did not speak at the event in memory of his mother.

The event was sponsored by the Bible study organization 929, headed by Rabbi Benny Lau, whose mother attended along with other family and friends, to mark the beginning of a third cycle, dedicated to reading a passage of the Bible each day for 929 days to complete the entire text.

There were more impressive female speakers this week. One of the brilliant presenters at the AI Week Virtual Conference was Kira Radinsky. Over three days, with sixty-three Artificial Intelligence experts, she was not the only impressive woman speaking, to mention only two other standout names to watch out for, Sarit Kraus and Yonina Eldar.

However, the session I found most interesting concerned genealogy taking DNA identification to another level. DNA has been used to find 3rd cousins. With AI-enabled technology police were able to find the Golden State killer after 30 years. With data of age and sex, AI is able to pinpoint within 20 miles of home – and police collected DNA from a doorknob to seal the case.

I will skip the ways it can be used, say against secret agents working abroad, and leave it to your imagination for now, not give bad guys ideas.

There were so many online webinars, I forgot a few!

When the sun came out – I tried to get out. Work on Gan Sacher, Sacher Park, seems to not cease. Snowstorm damage is a great excuse to clean up, even on a shmita year when gardening is prohibited.

These floral wreaths were placed at the Candle Memorial in Gan Sacher dedicated to the two million people who died during the 900-day siege of Leningrad by the Nazis.

Also along the Jerusalem streets, there are new signs for the 120th year celebration of Shaare Zedek Hospital.

I was on my way to the VERT Hotel for the Besheva Jerusalem Conference.

The ballroom was full, long list of speakers, politicians, MKs, and Ministers.

How about this slide in one PowerPoint? Do you, or will we recognize Jerusalem if and when the Municipality develops its plans for growth?

The last, very last speaker on the second day, was the leader of the opposition who was not pleased that the participants of the last panel of the day were women who did not want to stop talking. Huge crowd, but most wore masks, and I tried to keep moving.

I had gone to see Rabbi Yehudah Felix receive a Jerusalem Prize for education. I will not mention how many years it has been since we have seen him and his wife. The smile was not for me, but his granddaughter who said “Saba smile!”

I took this photo on the way out and forgot to post it anywhere. I have been to who knows how many conferences and performances, but these guys were the best stagehands ever. Fast, efficient, and hard-working, so congrats guys. Maybe some readers will recognize them? Did not even leave a card as it was late, and all I wanted to do was get out and walk home.

While last week I was pleased to find four flowers close together,

today there were hundreds more and too many scenes to share here now.

I was not the only one out for a walk on the Jerusalem nature trails this week to get some sun and exercise. How exciting to see someone again after two years and recognize each other, with or without a mask! Aryeh was walking, but others have started training for the March 25th Jerusalem Marathon.

Also, Shaon Horef two years ago feels like a far-away dream. Now to see if these Monday-nights-in-February street events will get people to return to the Jerusalem streets and come out for Winter Noise.

I have had enough winter, but some nice noise sounds good to me.

Take care and hope to see you soon on the Jerusalem streets.